Stamford, Connecticut to Cape May, New Jersey

     
New England In The Fall



 

Hello Again

These pictures really don’t give the true account of just how beautiful this part of the country is in the Autumn, and this Autumn was gorgeous.  We only had a couple of days of rain.  For the most part it was warm sunny days.

Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Maine, Return

Hello again

We left you with the last Post in Provincetown.  It has been to date one of our favourite places. In fact the whole of the Cape Cod area is quite enchanting with charming towns and villages with streets lined with historical old homes. Shops and galleries selling lovely arts and crafts, restaurants with a variety of seafood  - lobster in particular, fresh from the ocean.   US history more or less started in this area so there is no shortage of places to visit and things to see.

Now we are at the beginning of September and quite far north.  With the fall soon to be upon us we must keep moving north and see as much as we can.  Most “normal” folk are now moving south, or thinking very seriously about moving south, for the winter months !!!!!

We leave Provincetown on Wednesday 6th September avoiding lobster pots and whales.  We are heading for the town of Scituate, some 30nm away.  We are able to sail all morning, but in the afternoon loose the wind so are motoring again.  Late afternoon we are just off the entrance to what we think is Situate.  I call on the radio to ask if we can pick up a mooring buoy.  The long and short of it is we are not entering Scituate Harbour at all, but Cohasset some 7nm further north !!!!!  Alec had entered Cohasset into the chart plotter.  The harbour master in Cohasset came on the radio to say I was entering her Harbour and yes she would come out and meet us and gave us a mooring for the night.  We all had a good laugh over that one.

Florida to Rhode Island, then Massachusetts

Hello One and All

Our time in Putnam, Connecticut with our grandchildren was such a joy. We stayed with our son-in-laws parents, where our daughter and and son-in-law are living until they settle into jobs. Tim and Marcia were wonderful hosts.  A GREAT BIG THANKYOU to you both.  As they both work we were needed to mind the Munchkins. Summer in Connecticut is beautiful.  We did outings, and when home Tim and Marcia have set up a wonderful back yard.  It is a real children's playground.
Then it came time to fly back to Florida and pick up SHAMAL and keep heading north.  We had been called back to Grandparent duties once again at the beginning of August, so decided it would be best to sail directly up to Rhode Island, and do the site seeing on the return trip.
Our return flight took us through Detroit then on to Orlando where once again Ed and Aubrey came to our assistance, picking us up from the airport and driving us back to their home on the waterways in New Smyrna Beach. Aubrey took us out shopping to stock up as we were sailing straight through, a trip of about a week.
So Tuesday 21st July sees us saying farewell to Ed and Aubrey and heading off to the fuel dock.  This will be another long leg and we don’t anticipate stopping.  We hope to head out to sea and pick up the Gulf Current which should give us a good push along.

Florida – U.S.A.

Hello again.

We were on a pole mooring in Turtle Cove Marina, Providenciales – Caicos, which we had gone in bow to, and only just squeezed in. With the help of a Danish yachtsman we were able to back out with only an inch or so to spare. We followed a mono out through Sellar’s Cut – the opening in the reef, and hoist the sails once more.  Another glorious day with winds from the east at 16kts., some whitecaps and a following sea of 1.5mts.  The evenings are cooler with no moon.  Day 2 and we are able to hoist the MPS and give it another airing.  We are able to fly it until just before midnight when the winds strengthen, so down it came as it is only for winds up to 17kts.

Puerto Rico and onto the Turks & Caicos

Hello Again

We were able to clear out from Sint Maarten the afternoon before leaving for Puerto Rico. This meant we were underway just on day-break.  With sails up we clear the island and change tack to get onto the correct heading.  Oh “B” the mainsheet traveller has jammed up.  This will be interesting.  We need this to move the main sail from the port to starboard tack and back !!!  Something in the workings of it has failed !!  After about five minutes Alec manages to get it to work, but with difficulty. It will need an overhaul very soon.  Another job to add to the tech list which is now growing longer by the day it seems.

We have a lovely sail with eastly winds giving us a good push from the aft quarter.  The seas are between 1-2 mts but this is something SHAMAL handles with ease and it is a comfortable ride.  During the night we pass the British and US Virgin Islands out to our STBD side some 28nm away.  We have an almost full moon which makes for a lovely night passage.  The main and jib are still holding together, but, Alec is still adding a patch here and there to keep them together.  Not long to go now before they will be replaced – just on a 1,000nm till we reach Stuart in Florida where the job will be done !!!!!!  We also have the rod out again fishing, but all we are catching is the golden seaweed.  This is becoming very frustrating.

We are now hearing the US Coast Guard on the radio.  I suppose as Puerto Rico falls under US jurisdiction, they will become a familiar voice on the radio from now on. Puerto Rico sits in the northern Caribbean and came under US possession in 1898.  Puerto Ricans have been US citizens since 1917. The Spanish name means ‘rich port’, that, we are not totally convinced about !!!

Sint Maarten and St. Martin

Hello To You All










On leaving Dominica we do an over night sail up through the Leeward Islands.  We now have to by-pass many of them for this season, but, we will return.  The winds are light and we find we are motor sailing for most of this leg. It has become quite hazy, and it is warm and sunny.  What little breeze we do have is at least cooling.  Dolphins surf our bow waves and seem to enjoy swimming between the hulls. There are plenty of flying fish which get airborne as we approach and take off just above the surface of the water travelling quite long distances. We watch the different sea birds as they skim the surface in search of a meal. Also we still have huge patches of that golden seaweed around which makes fishing impossible.  I catch mounds of the stuff !!!!

On the second afternoon we arrive at the small Island of Sint Maarten/St. Martin. It is no more than about seven miles in length, and width, with a large lagoon dominating the western side.  The Island is owned by both the French and the Dutch, hence both the names. It is possibly the best known holiday destination in the Leeward group. We arrived on the Dutch side of the Island and dropped anchor in Simpson Bay, just outside the lagoon.  You can take your boat into the lagoon where you can anchor, or pull into one of the marinas surrounding it, but we decided to anchor out as the waters are cleaner for swimming.  Also the temperatures are cooler with a lovely breeze blowing through the boat. It turns out to be a great anchorage for an ex-pilot as well, as the airport runs along the far side of the bay.

Dominica

Hey Mon

Dis week we sail into Roseau, de capital of dis here Dominica.  De white mon boat is hooked to de mooring ball.  They speeke de English good but dems hard to understand some what dem say and makees us laff a lots !!!!!!

Yes we have arrived in Dominica. We are sitting off the capital, Roseau. We didn’t know what to expect, and the main reasons we are stopping here this season is to have one of our gas bottles refilled as we are not sure if or when we will get our NZ bottles filled again.  Well we are so glad we made this stop.  Our clearance in was so simple.  You visit just one office, and if staying under two weeks you can clear out at the same time – wonderful.  We are able to drop off our gas bottle and pick it up the same day – that will be done the following morning.  After clearing in we wander the town.  A cruise ship is in port so everything is open.  The place is not crammed full of tourists which is nice, and the locals somehow no we are not off the ship.  Maybe we now have taken on that bronzed weather-beaten look that long-term cruisers get. Also we don’t run around in our designer clothes, just cool and comfortable.

Martinique

Bonjour To You All Again

We have a lovely sail across to Martinique with a reef in the main and jib, as winds were gusting up to 30kts. We also had two heavy showers of rain, so SHAMAL got a wash.  As we were approaching the entrance to the huge harbour at Marin, we we buzzed by a helicopter a couple of times with him flying very low over us.  He seemed to be checking out all yachts coming in.  I waved out and took photos. We have just read in the papers that a yacht falsely flying an American flag, with two Spanish and one Venezuelan on board, were stopped and boarded by the authorities in Martinique waters, who found a hundred million US dollars of cocaine on board !!!!!!  A couple of tons of the stuff. That is the second boat which has been caught in these waters in the last six months.

We have now arrived at our first French Island, but the last of the Windward Islands. The Caribs who lived here at the time Christopher Columbus sailed into these waters, called their Island Madinina, which means Island of flowers.  The French colonists were the first to settle the Island in the early 1600’s, clearing the forests to make room for the sugar plantations. The native Caribs retaliated, but by 1660 the majority of them were driven off their Island. Those that survived lived in the Mt. Pelee area, but were later wiped out by the Europeans, but, not before calling on the mountain to take its revenge !!  Once again the British got in on the act, but only occupied it for a short period, between 1794 to 1815. With the French back in control they faced a down turn in the sugarcane market due to the introduction of sugar beets on mainland France.

St Lucia

Hello Again

St Lucia – another gorgeous Island in the chain, but this one really grabs your attention as you sail towards it.  The south western end has two quite spectacular volcanic mountains close together that rise from the ocean dripping in tropical rain forest. These are known as the Pitons. Gros Piton - 2600ft, and Petit Piton - 2500ft.  In fact the they are depicted on their national flag, one gold and the other black rising from the blue sea.

 

St Lucia is a teardrop-shaped island only 27 miles long covering an area of 238 sq miles. Banana plantations ( alongside tourism ) form the staple industry for the island. It is also home to beautiful hibiscus and wild orchids along with many other tropical trees, shrubs and flowers.  It is a little sad as today only 10% of the Island remains covered in rainforest, though you would not think so from the sea as it appears so lush and tropical, but what remains, is now set aside as a nature reserve,  When it was under British colonial administration much of the forest was harvested for its timber. 

Our point of entry was to be the town of Soufriere, which sits in a bay just to the north of the Pitons.  “MOONDANCER” arrived before us, and having done a quick reconnaissance of the anchorage, decided to move further north to the bay at Marigot. We followed.  In hindsight this was a bad decision as it was now Good Friday when we checked in which involved overtime fees to do so.  We had forgotten that Easter was upon us.  Strange how time moves on and we forget what day it is. Never mind, Marigot turned out to be a beautiful anchorage, and the perfect place to spend the long Easter weekend.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Hello Again

 

St. Vincent is the most northerly and largest Island that make up this country, but Bequia is the northern island in the Grenadines group. We entered St. Vincent and the Grenadines from the south, at Union Island.  This was the Island our son-in-law, Dan, was based on for a time flying a piper-arrow.  Our daughter Brigitte joined him for a short stay.  Neither were impressed with the Island, but it was summer at the time and they had no air-conditioning in the house.  Also the mosquitoes and “no-see-ums” were so bad that they were eaten alive.  For us, well we had a completely different experience.  For a start it is the winter months where temperatures are perfect.  You always have a lovely breeze out on the water, so sleeping at night is not a problem, and as for the bugs, well they are not around yet !!!

Grenada and Carriacou

Grenada – The Spice Island – has 75 miles of coastline with lovely sandy beaches, and an interior of lush tropical mountainous rainforest, and different spice trees which give it it’s name as the ‘Isle of Spice’.  It really is a pretty place. We are now in the southern most Island of the Windward group.  The Windward Islands extend southwards from the Leeward Islands.  Grenada is the southern most, and Martinique the northern most of the group. They are all of volcanic origin.

We drop anchor in Prickly Bay at the southern end of Grenada at 10.00am after an 80nm run up from Trinidad. It was a rather ‘lumpy’ crossing sailing on a close reach with winds between 18-28kts.  We also had a 2kt current pushing us to the east, then it would swing to the west, then back again, for most of the crossing.  This is the first time in ages that I did not feel like dinner, so Alec only got eggs, as I did not want to stay inside for very long !!  Also it was humid. The only positive thing about the trip was that we had a nearly full moon.  That always makes for nice night passages. Twenty five miles north of Trinidad we passed an oil platform all lit up like a Christmas Tree.

Trinidad and Tobago

Hello Again

Actually it was Tobago which we arrived at first as it sits slightly to the north east of Trinidad.   We had a good sail down in winds between 14 – 20kts with Lloyd following just behind us. During the night with the radar on, as we were again watching the squalls, we noticed we were having a power problem.  Oh no, Alec very soon discovered it may be getting close to the time when we need to replace the batteries.  Lets just hope they hold on a little longer, but seven and a half years is a good run from them.  New sails needed, now new batteries !!!!

Tobago is 116 sq. miles, with forested mountains and some lovely bays with white sandy beaches behind coral reefs and coconut palms to the waters edge.  Again it is not one of the more popular sailing destinations due to winds and currents and also a bit out of the way. No real facilities for yachts but some nice bays to anchor.

Barbados

Hello Again

Yes Lloyd arrived safely four days after us.  We were pleased to see him again after loosing radio contact. The above photos show us having our ‘Celebration’ drinks having completes the Atlantic crossing.


Because of the Islands’ easterly position sitting outside the main chain of the Caribbean Islands, and because of the direction of the wind – easterlies, right on the nose, also the current does not help – Barbados is not such a popular cruising ground therefore less visited by yachts.  The eight boats who are anchored with us in Carlisle Bay, Bridgetown, have crossed the Atlantic like us either from the Canary Islands, or the Cape Verdes.  But it is a popular destination as it does cater for all, from the budget tourist right through to the rich and famous who like to be pampered and spoilt.


One ketch is missing it’s main mast, and a young Israeli guy arrived on his 24ft. yacht from the Canary Islands taking 24 days.  He says his stay here will be longer than first planned due to major engine problems.  Still they made it, which is the most important thing.
This Island is 21 miles long by 14 miles wide.  It’s population is around 300,000 people, mainly of African descent.  The others came from England and India.  As it was under British rule for over 300 year, there is an incredible amount of British traditions mingled with an African influence here.  It is often referred to as ‘little England’.  It became independent in 1966. Today Barbados is a well run, stable, and relatively affluent country, but, if one reads the local papers, it still has its share of problems that are associated with this part of the world. 

Leg Three of the Altantic. Cape Verdes - Barbados.

Once again it’s time for another departure.  Alec has been hoisted to the top of the mast to check the rigging.  We hoisted some buckets of water up to him to wash some of the Sahara dust away. All halyards and sheets have been double checked for chafing.  He has dived underneath and checked rudders, props and the hull in general.  He has even given the hull a clean. Weather has been downloaded and supplies stored. As it is Friday, and we hope to leave at 0800 Monday morning, we have even been able to do our check out formalities.


Lloyd on DEJAVU – his Seawind 1000 – is also ready.  Together we spend the last evening ashore enjoying a lovely steak dinner at one of the local restaurants.  Markus, Lloyds young crew member, is off with some friends watching the local bands getting ready for Carnival time in a few weeks.
The winds are still blowing a good 25kts here in the bay at Mindelo. It has got to the stage if they drop to 10kts we now think it is calm sitting out here. While we have been in the bay there is one small yacht anchored in front of us that lost its mast on the run down from the Canaries, a second yacht arrived with a broken boom, and a third put out a Mayday only 18nm out into the Atlantic with a broken rudder !!!
As Monday morning dawns we see the Island of Santo Antao, only eight miles across the channel, for the second time since we have been here.  This morning it is lovely and clear.  DEJAVU has upped her anchor and leaves the bay 30 minutes before us – 0730.  We follow her out into a rather lumpy channel with winds gusting 33kts and a 4mt. sea running.  We have third reef in the main and a reefed jib. As we pass the southern tip of Santo Antao it reminds us so much of Oman – high mountainous, dry and rocky, but quite spectacular.  The visibility really is great. Ahead of us is the BIG blue Atlantic!

Leg Two Of The Atlantic. Canaries – Cape Verdes

Tuesday 30th December. Early Evening SHAMAL and DEJAVU are both sitting at anchor outside the marina in Las Palmas harbour.  Again the weather has been downloaded and charts all checked and studied.  It looks like we will have more winds for this leg making it possible to sail nearly all the way. We have another run of just over 850nm on this leg.
So an early night is decided upon to be bright eyed for the morning. Alec and I are up and almost ready to depart by 7.30am on Wednesday 31st December.  There is no life on DEJAVU initially.  Then we see them stowing things away.  By 1045 Alec and I are becoming a little impatience so up anchor and motor on over to find the boys enjoying a leisurely breakfast.  Then Lloyd tells us he just needs to stow his tender, but, also will wait another hour for the winds to come around more to the east, as they were around to the south-east.  We told him we would motor on out of the harbour and see what it was like out there. We did so very slowly expecting him to join us a little later.  Once we were clear of the headland we raised the sails, reef in main and jib, and had to tack along the coast to clear the Island.  Still no DEJAVU.  Then he radioed to tell us his crew member was felling seasick – oh help they are still at anchor!!  Then he told us he would not be leaving that day and we could call in at the Navel Bay further down the coast.  We did not like that idea as we had a couple of fish farms to contend with and no charts showing rocks or depths.  Also the seas were pounding in on that side of the Island, so we told him we would push on, and now that the wind had come around to be more of an easterly at 18kts we were being carried along nicely.  As per usual the winds did swing around from time to time and we found ourselves off on a tack.  It was not a nice feeling carrying on and leaving Lloyd back in port, but we did not want to turn into the winds and slog back.

Leg One Of The Atlantic. Gibraltar – Canaries

Weather forecasts had been downloaded and studied a hundred times. Tide charts had been gone over, and now it was time to untie those mooring lines, leave La Linea, and head out into the Strait of Gibraltar. There are still so many places we have not visited which were on the list, but, as Alec says look at what was not on the list, that we have visited.  Sadly because of time we were going to run directly to Las Palma - Gran Canary, and not stop off on the Moroccan coast like we had first planed. Time dictates that we keep moving. But, first we motored into the fuel dock in Gibraltar to fill up our two diesel tanks and 11 Jerry Cans. The water tank is full and the water maker has been checked over. Stores have all been stowed.  Now we are as ready as one can be. Down the rhumb line we have just over 700nm to go.

The Christmas Season 2014

Hello To You All Again.

Our five weeks in New Zealand passed very quickly, but we did manage to sort our the business of Alec’s pension.  We also did a quick trip South, and a Big thank you to all who very kindly had us to stay and made time for a catch up. Also a Big thank you to all who had us for meals and made time for visits, both up North, and down South.

We arrived back in La Linea on the 28th November after a long flight on Air New Zealand, coming  through the States, then to Heathrow – London, where we spent a night.  Next morning we took Monarch to Gibraltar.  That night in London made all the difference to my sanity!!   Pete and Kathy Jamieson, a NZ couple off ‘Wave Runner’, invited us to dinner that first night back.  We forgot to change our clocks and arrived a whole hour early for the meal !!!!  They must have though we were extra hungry.