Hello to You All Again
I had bashed it around for long enough and given it too much sea air, so gave up totally. A trip to an Italian specialist where he worked on it for a week trying to revive it, made no difference. But he did manage to transfer my photo file onto an external hard drive thank- goodness, otherwise I would have had to make Alec retrace our WHOLE trip so far, to replace them – Yeah Right!!!!! Then we had a few issues with Alec’s computer which he has finally sorted thank goodness, so I will be using his till I can replace mine. I won’t do it here in Italy as my Italian is not quite up to explaining what I would like. In fact my Italian is all of two to three words!! But I do have all the hand waving etc. and to date are getting along just fine. Hopefully I can add another three words to my vocab soon. OK now back to the matters of our Adventures to date.
Once back on the Croatian
coastline we sailed into Rovinj to check back into the country. No
problems there and with our passports stamped and boat papers checked we headed
off to pick up a mooring buoy for the night. Next day it as back into the
town to check out the fuel wharf as we do need to top up the tanks, and this
one can be very exposed in certain winds. Then we pick up a few supplies. Next
morning it is lovely and calm so we motor around to the fuel wharf. Once
we have completed that job we are on our way.
Our next stop is only 20nm
down the coast to the lovely sheltered anchorage of Uvala Kanalic just south of
Pula. It is a big bay with pine trees growing right to the water’s edge
giving great shelter from all winds, hence a very popular anchorage. The
sailing season is definitely not over as the bay is full of yachts, and people
are still swimming as the water temperature is still above 25 deg. C.
This is only a night stopover
for us as we need to keep moving. We have rain during the night and next
morning it is overcast as we say goodbye to the Istria Peninsula – Northern
Croatia – and cross the Kvarner Channel, this time in slightly calmer seas, and
sail between the Islands of Cres and Losinj. Here we need to pass through
the Osor Canal. We need to wait for the bridge to open at 5.00pm so tie
up at the old stone quay on the northern side. We still have a couple of
hours to kill and decide to walk into the quaint old town. The entire
town is a museum with its Roman and Venetian walls, Bronze Age remains,
monuments, and, more modern sculptures of musicians on nearly every corner
playing a different instrument. Also plenty of very friendly cats.
One nearly adopted us here. Once through the bridge we find yet another
beautiful sheltered uninhabited cove to drop anchor in for the night.
Next day is like a mill
pond. Not a breath of wind about. It is still overcast and again we
had rain during the night. Heading south we motor to Muline on the NE end
of the Island of Ugljan. Once anchored we go ashore for a walk and
a look see. The local bar on the stone key is still open for business so
a glass of wine is enjoyed as we watch the watery sun setting, again with a
gorgeous little cat playing with us. There is a large tourist boat tied up to
the stone quay with a group of cyclists on board, who in the morning are
dropped off here and will now cycle down the length of Island to be picked up
at the other end. Great way to see the place, only trouble is I think
they will get quite wet as there are now heavy rain clouds about as we up
anchor and continue on towards Zadar on the mainland.
It is still warm at 27 deg.
C. but a weather warning has been broadcast saying winds will reach 40kts by
midmorning and into the afternoon. Great – NOT !!! We only
have 15nm to reach Zadar so hope we arrive before the weather does. Zadar
coastline is rather open and exposed and just back in August was hit by stormy
winds which produced 10 metre waves and sank boats. We motor past the
city and down to the Bay of Sukosan just 5nm away and drop anchor behind the
new marina along with a couple of other yachts, which provides us with perfect
shelter. Those strong winds did not eventuate thank goodness.
The following morning we
caught the bus back into Zadar. Today it is an important regional centre,
but again with an interesting history. Originally Illyrian
inhabited – 1200 BC – then the Romans used it as a port for trading
wine and timber. In the Middle Ages the Byzantine fleet had it as a main
base. Venice and Hungary fought over it. Hungary won but later sold it to
Venice, and on goes its history right through to W.W. 11 when it was repeatedly
bombed, suffering much damage to some of its wonderful old buildings.
Still there is plenty to see. On a modern note there is one very
interesting piece of architecture to see today, and that is the Sea
Organ. This is a musical instrument built into the quayside. Under
the white stone steps are a set of pipes which produce musical chords naturally
as waves push air up through the pipes. People were sitting on the steps in the
sun listening to the music. It is really nice to listen to.
So back to SHAMAL for the
night and then our electrical storm started. Lightning thunder and some
very heavy rain. The lightning and thunder were around for most of the
night. The next morning as we upped anchor and moved on out we still had
the lightning, but also a nice breeze of around 13kts so we were able to sail.
We arrived at Rogoznica just before dark having covered 50nm with Alec
zigzagging around the Islands trying to find wind. The village of
Rogoznica is built on an Island and connected to the main land by a
causeway. It is in a natural harbour and again is beautifully
sheltered. We spent a couple of nights in here as we were waiting to pick
up Judith and Graham from Dubai who were flying into Trogir – just around the
corner – to join us again. The trip south so far had taken us to new
places, but now we wanted to show Judith and Graham some of the lovely places
we had visited on our trip north.
We had dropped the anchor on
the west side of Trogir in the main channel leading to the town quay. We took
the tender ashore and met J&G. After dumping their bags back on the
boat we went ashore again for a bit of an explore, then dinner. Alec took
them on his scenic tour around the Island in the tender, taking us under the ‘lowest’
arches of the old bridges!! This meant we nearly had to lie down to get
through. Never mind the old spiders which I have quite an aversion to!
The following morning it was
back into Trogir for a bit of a photo shoot and a few supplies, then back on
board and we were heading out towards the Island of Vis, which we had not
visited on the trip north. J&G had brought the sunshine with them,
but no wind. With the success Graham had had earlier on in the season
with his fishing, the rod came out and he took up his usual position on fish
watch! But alas nothing was caught, so it looks like dinner will be
ashore tonight. Vis is the largest of the most westerly Islands belonging
to Croatia. It has been inhabited since stone-age times. The Island played a key
role during W.W.11 - In 1944 Marshal Tito used it as a base for co-ordinating
partisan military operations. Until 1989 it was used as a military base and
closed to foreigners. So today it has not been totally spoilt and has a
picturesque town inside the main harbour on the northern side of the
Island. Alec noted that the churches always seem to occupy the best spots
in town. Either on the top of a hill, or in this case right on the shore
line. Prime site. Not so many tourists out and about here but we
did manage to find a nice place for dinner. Judith and I did have a little
trouble with the wine menu – think we got cough medicine!!
The following day after a
leisurely start to the morning, and with the sun out again, we set out for Hvar
where we pick up a mooring buoy right in the middle of the harbour. Bit
of a change from our first visit when we could not even get into the Harbour
because of all the other boats in here. Once ashore we send J&G on the hike
up the hill to the citadel for the spectacular view of the old town and out
over the bay to the Islands beyond. Don’t think they found the climb too
spectacular as the temperature was nearly 30deg. C.!! Anyway a nice cold
beer and a glass of much better wine awaited them on their return as we found a
bar in the town square where we watched the world go by. The town was having
it’s ‘end of summer festival ‘. Music was being played and
people were gathering for something? We were to find out what that
‘something’ was at about 10.00pm as we were just getting ready to turn in for
the night. First of all very loud but lovely music started up and as we
poked out heads out to have a look a flotilla of local old fashion fishing
boats hoist sail and motor/sail out around the harbour. Spot lights were
shone on them – including us as there we were moored in the middle of the
harbour. This went on for about an hour before they returned to the quay
and tied up alongside again.
The following morning we
leave Alec on-board and return to the town to buy the lovely smoked Croatian
hams and fresh bread. Then off to climb another hill to find an old
tower, church and graveyard. Late morning we untie our mooring line and head
towards the Island of Korcula. Again Graham has the fishing line out even
more determined to catch dinner. As we sail down the Peljeski Channel towards
Korcula we get another weather warning. Winds to increase to between 35 –
50kts by evening from the NE going around to the NW. Oh bugger that will
make a difference to where we will have to anchor. It is back to the
south side of Badija Island in front of the Convent again but at least it is
sheltered. We will see how things are in the morning and maybe we can move
closer to the old city. Well another ‘failed’ for Graham on the fishing
front, the only thing he did manage to catch was our wind generator!!!!
The 50kts of wind did not
eventuate thank goodness so next morning we upped anchor and moved back into Luka
Bay where we know the holding is excellent and the anchorage is
sheltered. Then it’s off to see the old town of Korcula, one of my
favourite in the whole of the Adriatic. The whole town is truly
enchanting with its 13th century walls with towers and bastions
built by the Venetians. The narrow streets, old buildings and churches
built from the honey coloured stone give this place a wonderful atmosphere. We
explored, then sat at a restaurant on the old wall looking out over the Channel
enjoying lunch, and then explored some more. It was back to SHAMAL for
dinner which Graham was appointed to cook due to behaviour the day before – NO
FISH !!! What a gourmet chef he is! We had delicious Croatian
Pancakes – they are stuffed with a meat mixture and covered with a cheese
sauce. He even made Gluten Free ones for me.
Next morning we head on out
for Polace on the Island of Mljet, another place we wanted J&G to
see. This was our landlocked anchorage in the National Park we used on
the way North. The beautifully wooded bay has trees coming down to the
water’s edge most of the way around it. It was here we got Graham to
drive us up to the mooring buoy and Judith picked it up. Well done they
did a great job. So it was then ashore for a coffee and J&G set off
to cross the lake on the other side of the Island to visit St Mary’s
Monastery. Alec and I had done that trip on our previous visit.
Then it was out to dinner.
So off our mooring buoy the
following morning had us heading south again. We pass through the last of the
Islands of lower Croatia and motor under the high suspension bridge which takes
the Adriatic Highway north, and on up the Dubrovacka River and drop anchor
outside the ACI Marina Dubrovnik. We had been looking to refuel but were
to discover the fuel wharf is only open for half a day – it is the ‘off’ season
so the guy feels he does not need to work full time! So it is ashore in
the tender for drinks at the marina and a quick trip to the supermarket for a
few supplies. Next morning we motor back up to the fuel wharf to find the
guy has gone off to the doctor and won’t be back for about an hour. So we
wait. Once he returns we fill the tanks and all 10 jerry cans, then
anchor back in the river before setting off in a local bus for Dubrovnik.
It is now 11th October but the weather is hot and sunny with clear
blue skies.
Once in the old city we send
J&G off to walk the city walls as it is truly the only way to see this
magnificent old city. They are the ‘symbol’ of Dubrovnik. Alec and
I wander again through the narrow streets then find a place to have
coffee. We are surprised by the number of tourists so late in the season,
but with weather like this it is no wonder. Once J&G re-join us we
take the cable car for the four minute ride to the top of Mount Srd some 412
metres above the Old City. Not only does one get a bird’s eye view over
Dubrovnik, but also out over the crystal clear Adriatic Sea and numerous
Islands. Then to the NE you look over into the mountains of Bosnia Herzegovina.
The cable car having been complete destroyed in the 1991 war has been
rebuilt. Along with Fort Imperial which also sits at the top of the
Mountain, both were seriously shelled by the Serbian artillery. A group
of Dubrovnik’s defenders successfully held the fort during the entire
campaign. Fort Imperial was built by Napoleon’s occupying army in
1808. Historically since that time it has been a vital defence position
for the Old City. Today it is a museum where one can view weaponry, images
and maps of the city before, during and after the war. We enjoyed lunch
at the outdoor restaurant taking in the beautiful views before vising the
museum.
This was J&G last full
day with us as the following afternoon they were flying back to Dubai.
During the night we had a change in the weather with some rain. By the morning
it had stopped but was cool and overcast so it looked like J&G were taking
the sunshine back to Dubai with them. We upped anchor and headed out of
the river and down the coast in rather choppy seas to the town of Cavtat where
we had checked into Croatia two months earlier. This time we go
into Cavtat Harbour and pick up a mooring buoy. We all go ashore for our
final lunch together. We ask the waiter about catching a cab to the
airport and he offers to drive J&G out there. So it is bye to our
guests who have been great – apart from no fish this trip!!! Oh well
Graham a good excuse to return next year.
Next morning we go ashore to
find out about a trip into Bosnia Herzegovina. Once that is book for the
following morning we set off for a good walk. About fifteen minutes from home
we see big black thunderstorm clouds looming over the hills behind and if we
don’t make it back we will get drenched. We are caught short and have to
run the last bit back into town. We make it to a coffee shop and watch it
pass over then out to sea and out towards Dubrovnik. The winds seem to
pick up as it moves on and the rain bounces off the water. The following day a
British woman told us how she and her husband had just arrived in an out-door
restaurant in the Old City of Dubrovnik, and sat down when it hit. A mini
tornado formed which struck the restaurant lifting tables and chairs and
anything around that was loose. Awnings were ripped from the roof and within seconds
it looked like a bomb had gone off. Broken glasses, crockery, menus and
table decoration were everywhere. They managed to jump up and run into the
restaurant just as it arrived without being hit by anything. She said
somehow the staff seemed to put things back into some sort of order and still
serve meals. 
So next morning we are up
early to meet with the bus for our trip into Bosnia Herzegovina. We cross into
the country and our first stop is in the coastal town of Neum for coffee.
Oh help we had forgotten just how lucky we have been traveling around without
having to be one of those tourists who jump on and off buses visiting the sites
and bumping into a million others as you doing the same as you!!! You
still felt as if you were in Croatia. Well no wonder as most of the
people in this area Bosnian Croats – Roman Catholic. Neum is a pretty
coastal town overlooking the sea. After the 1990’s war, in the big divide
up, Bosnia Herzegovina were given a 25 mile strip of Coastal land so as they
could have access to the Adriatic. We then head inland crossing back into
Croatia, then back into Bosnia Herzegovina. At the border the men were
dressed in what looked like Salvation Army uniforms with pilot bars on their
shoulder epaulettes. Plenty of gold!! Then we headed inland and the next
town we passed through is Metkovic, where the local dishes include
grilled eel and frog stew washed down with either red wine mixed with coke, or
white wine mixed with sparkling mineral water. Yes that is correct.
The drink mixers are due to the fact that there was a bit of a drinking problem
in the area. So glad this was not our lunch stop! I might have managed
the grilled eel and white wine, but not sure about the other! The one ‘normal’
thing growing there were acres and acres of tangerines.
Then it was on to
Medugorje. This once sleepy little winemaking town was made famous in
June 1981 when it is said the Holy Virgin spoke to six local teenagers on a
hillside just outside the town. Since then it has become a pilgrim centre
like Lourdes in France and Fatima in Portugal. Oh help we had only one
person on our bus who really wanted to stop here. I think half of Europe
were visiting that day. Standing room only. The main street shops
were full of all the same stuff, and tons of it - everything one does not need
to buy!! How any of them made money is a mystery, and people did not seemed to
be buying.
Our last stop, and the one
Alec and I really wanted to visit, was Mostar. On disembarking from the bus we
are met by our guide, a young Bosnian Croat with a great sense of humour.
His opening statement to us was “I have nothing nice to say about my city, but
I can tell you how to wage war and make AK47’s.” He was actually sent
away during the 1990’s conflict by his parents to Italy, and did not return
till it was all over. He explained that during the war the Croats fought
with the Muslims against the Serbs. Later they had a fall out and fought
each other. Then he took us on a street tour which led us into the old
town through cobbled lanes passing the trinket sellers, cafes and then out onto
the famous and most celebrated site in the area, the stone arc bridge which
sits between two medieval towers. It crosses the Neretva River. In 1557
Suleyman the Magnificent ordered a fine stone arch bridge to replace the wobbly
suspension one. The Stari Most (Old Bridge) was completed in 1566 and
came to be appreciated as one of the world’s engineering marvels. It
survived the Italian occupation of WW11, but after standing for 427 years the
bridge was destroyed in November of 1993, by what many sources believe, the
Bosnian Croat artillery. That was showed around the world on TV and
reported as the most poignant, pointless and depressing moment of the whole
Yugoslav civil war. By 2004 the Stari Most had been painstakingly reconstructed using 16th century style building techniques and much of the old stone, or stone from the original quarry. Today it visited by people from all over the world and is what gives Mostar its unique magic.
Our Swedish guide on the bus,
who is married to a local Bosnian Croat (Catholic) was explaining to us that
what your religion is here is part of your identity. The whole country is
built around religion. She married in Sweden and when her husband took
her home to Bosnia, her mother-in-law asked her if she was Catholic or
Protestant. She replied “neither, I am and Agnostic.” Her
mother-in-law replied, “well Dear is that Agnostic Catholic or Agnostic
Protestant”?
The country today, like the whole
of the old Yugoslavia region, still has scars and unhealed wounds from past
conflicts. Emotional and physical war damage is still very prevalent, but
they are trying hard to bury the past and move forward. Geographically
the region is beautiful with such diverse landscapes. Mountains, plains,
cascading river canyons, forests and of course a magical coastline with so many
wonderful Islands. Of course the History and all it has to offer goes
without saying.
So after our Day inland it
was back to SHAMAL. We now had to check the weather for our trip
south. It was not looking good for the next couple of days with winds
increasing from the south and seas increasing also. Two other yachts
arrived into the harbour the following morning to wait out the weather
also. Seas outside the harbour are between 2-3mts and the winds are
gusting 40kts.
Three days later we are able
to move from our mooring buoy and over to the “Q” quay to check out of
Croatia. The sun is shining again and the winds and seas have dropped and
we are now on our way to Corfu. With my fishing line out I now find time
for some domestic duties. Cooking, washing and cleaning. We either sail or
motor sail for this 201nm trip. Off Albania we pick up a number of mayday
calls and it sounds as if there is a catamaran in trouble, but with the
position that is given we see that it is quite some distance from where we are
and someone else has picked it up. We anchor just after midnight in Ormos
Kammeno, the bay just outside the Gouvia Marina, Corfu. It is cool and
very dark but we can see we are the only yacht in the bay. A bit of a
change from when we were here mid-summer.
Our reason for coming into
Corfu is to have some maintenance done but as it is now Friday we decide to sit
outside the marina saving costs, and will check things out on Monday. As
the weather is nice and sunny, and the water still warm, we use the weekend
mornings to clean the hulls and in the afternoons we take the tender ashore to
have a coffee or wine, or both, while checking our emails. Monday morning
we are busy removing the jib sail, to be repaired, the anchor bridle, to be
replaced, the port trampoline, to be strengthened, and a list with some spare
parts we would like to get. By mid-week we decide it is time to check
into Corfu so off we set to the Harbour Masters and Customs Offices. When
trying to explain that we DO NOT want a cruising permit as we have only called
in for repairs, this all gets a bit complex. We are sent back and forth
between the officers until someone finally decides in their wisdom to get this
sorted. We are told that theoretically if we have repairs done we will
need a Lloyds certificate to say the vessel is seaworthy again. Bugger
that can you imagine how much that would cost. So we are told not to
leave the marina until all work is completed, and then go!!!! No checking
in, so no checking out!! Well that is nice and easy. Problem
“officially” solved.
It is now Tuesday 30th
October and after 10 days in Corfu and all jobs complete, and most spares
sourced, we are able to leave for our winter home in Sicily. We
received very exciting news last night. Daughter Brigitte phoned from the
States to say that possibly today we could become Grandparents. She went
for her weekly check up at the hospital and the doctor decided it was time to
bring the babies into this world as one was not growing at the same rate as the
other. It would mean they would be a month early. She is living
near Boston and as Hurricane Sandy was due to hit the area the next day she was
admitted to the Hospital there and then. Dan was sent home to collect her
bags. So, as we sail out of Corfu I have the cell phone all charged up
and son Murray is to keep me informed. I was afraid we would get too far
off the coast to receive the news. About every half hour Murray sent a
text message. We swapped between sails and motor for most of the trip
which has been the norm for this season. I was just praying I would not
be busy with sails when Murray called. It got to the stage when I had to
stand up on the deck outside to send my messages as we were creeping further
away from the coast. Then at 2000 we received the message that we had
become Grandparents. Matthew James arrived at 1053am weighing 2145g – 4lb
11oz, and William Mackenzie arrived at 1054am weighing 2420g – 5lb o5oz.
It was over a week before we saw the first photos of them.
We did the 168nm run to
Crotone on the southern Italian coast in a mixed bag of weather. During
the night passage the moon was out, then under cover of cloud. Sails up
sometimes doing a nice 7kts, but then the next moment dropping to 4kts.
Then a rain cloud shows up on the radar and grows and grows till it decides to
drop buckets on top of us. We arrive in Crotone the next afternoon,
dodging gas platforms which are just off the coast. The winds are
gathering strength again and the seas building.
Crotone in past times was
renowned for its art and as having wonderful architecture. Well today
there is nothing to wonderful about this place apart from a bolt hole in bad
weather. Alec and I even found that not to be really true. The
winds were from the SW which caused a considerable surge to develop coming into
the harbour. We tied to a floating pontoon in strong winds and rain with
the help of a local who spoke not a word of English. Alec spent most of
the night up checking that the lines and fenders were doing their job.
Next morning we were woken early with a knocking on the hull. Another local,
again with no English, was trying to tell us about his small fishing boat which
HAD been tied up in the corner in front of us, was sunk!! He was saying
that we had hit it and sunk it. Oh **** he can’t really believe
that!! There was no way we would have done that and there was not a mark
on SHAMAL. He stood there for about half an hour arguing. Alec gave
up and came back into the boat. We were buying none of this. Now a
group of about 10-12 men had gathered on the dock. The local Mafia - Yeah
right. About an hour later a diver arrives with airbags and goes down to
re-float the boat. We are very relieved when the boat is re-floated as now it
is quite clear there was no damage done to it but that it was just swamped by
the waves coming into the harbour. He had to remove his inboard diesel engine.
After all the commotion is over we go ashore and have a look around. Not
too much to see, no one speaks any English and no internet connections anywhere
in town so we are unable to contact Brigitte. 
Crotone is off the tourist track
somewhat. All we manage to do is buy a cappuccino. Then there was the
question of checking into Italy. Again that was in the too hard basket
here as no-one spoke English. In the afternoon we are asked to move the
boat from our pontoon to the concrete wall opposite – Oh, NO NO NO!!! –
but, we have to. So with one of the locals on board and half a dozen on
shore, a stiff SW wind still blowing we untie our lines motor out, and then
back into the other side. We are not even tied on when Alec says Bugger
this – as one of the metal rings protruding out from the wall so very nearly
went through the side of the boat. Out we go again and this time back in towards
the wall picking up two front mooring lines and using our lines to tie our
stern to the wall, but keeping well off. Another night of
surging!!! Next morning we have had more than enough of Crotone and as soon as we have paid our harbour fees we are out of there. 80 euros for two nights without power or water and a whole lot of surging. Once outside the harbour it is sails up, with a reef in, we head for Cape Colonne. Winds of 10 -14 kts from the WNW are forecast so we should have a good run down to Sicily. Yeah Right!! Winds from the S gusting 26kts but at the Cape with a strong current against us and very short sharp seas build, so we decide to turn back. NO not back to Crotone. We drop anchor in the lee of the Cape. Winds now gust 35-40kts over-head, but we are tucked under a cliff and SHAMAL sits on the anchor like a dream. Three hours later we have the “Carabinieri” – Italian Coastguard – approaching us at high speed. They wanted to know who we were and what we were up to. I wanted to tell them we had just stopped for a “b” picnic, but thought it better not to as we were still to check in to the country. Before dawn the next morning we are on our way again before the winds get up. We cross the “Golfo di Squillace” – Gulf of Squalls – which was not too bad today thank goodness, cross the Straits of Messina and then pick up the coast of Sicily the following morning with Mt Etna looming in the distance. Next anchorage was Grand Harbour in Siracusa.
The following morning we go
to check into Italy. Our last check-out papers are from Croatia 19 day
ago. When asked how long has it taken to sail here, we decide it is best
not to mention our stop-over in Corfu as that could really complicate things,
so Alec reply’s “we have a very slow boat” – that would have meant we would
have spent the last 19 days with a speed of 1kt!!! The official just looks at
us, stamps our boat paper work and sends us off to the police station for our
visas.
The following day we up
anchor for what we hope will be the last time as it is only 62nm to Marina di
Ragusa, but again because of the weather we are forced to drop anchor for a
night, this time in the fishing harbour of Porto Palo after only 30nm. So
finally on Wednesday 7th November at midday we arrive into Marina di
Ragusa on the SE side of Sicily. This will be our winter home, and this
year we will not be returning to New Zealand.
Another great sailing season
is behind us with many wonderful memories, new friends made, fabulous places
visited and a real mixed bag of weather experienced. A total of 3,000nm
covered bringing our total to just on 27,000nm.
Much love from
The Admiral and The Commander
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