Montserrat

Little Bay
 

 

Hello Again



New Town above Little Bay
 

This was an Island which had not been on our itinerary. We wanted to go out to Antigua, and after reading the cruising guide were advised to sail down to Montserrat to get a better angle on the wind to head out to Antigua. Also it would make the trip shorter. Oh are we so glad we did this. Leaving Nevis we sailed out down the Islands eastern coast taking advantage of the winds, and not on the western side in the lee of the Island.

The 34nm leg was a good one and we dropped anchor just after lunch in Little Bay on the north western side of the Island. Plymouth, the old capital, and the waters around it and to the south of it – in fact over half the Island and its waters - are now in the exclusion zone due to volcanic activity. Little Bay in the north has now become Montserrat’s main port. The anchorage gave us excellent protection, but I understand it can be uncomfortable if winds are from the northeast.  Clearing in was nice and easy here.

Soufriere Hills Volcano
 

The Caribs and Arawaks were the Islands first settlers. Today it is known as the “Emerald Isle”, in memory of the Irish Catholics who were the first European to settle here in 1632 as they fled from English protestant persecution on St Kitts. Britain has ruled the Island since 1632, except for three brief periods of French occupation. Like all these Islands, when slavery was abolish, and with the drop in sugar prices, the Island fell into economic decline. The locals are a resilient lot and survived as they were able to be self-sufficient in food production. Hurricane Hugo in 1989 caused such deviation, they were dependant on aid from Britain. Things were just getting back to normal when on July 18^th 1995 the Soufriere Hills volcano woke from a 400 year dormancy, changing the Island and the lives of the people over the next 17 years with continuous eruptions and mudflows.

Joe, our Guide
 

This is where our guide Joe Phillip comes into his own. When we dropped anchor in the harbour, Joe saw us and gave us a call on the radio. We made arrangements to meet up the next morning. For over forty years Joe has been a guide on his Island. He has seen the before and after of what his Island has been through. He brings to life, the way life was, and is now, not only for his people, but all aspects of Island life. The landscape, the wildlife, and the people.

Digging volcanic ash from balcony
 

Joe's "overgrown"village
 

Our tour commenced with a drive up into the settlement above Little Bay. Before the volcano this end of the Island was almost uninhabited. Today it is the main town. We then drove off through lush beautiful tropical rainforest and headed to the Montserrat Volcano Observatory to watch an interesting and very informative movie on the mountains volcanic history. It included live footage of the eruptions. We also had a wonderful view out over the mountain. It was then on to visit sites, villages, a bridge which is now buried, a golf course which is now buried, a new beach extension, and many many more interesting places. Joe has the most amazing photos of the before and after. We drove through what was his village before he was forced to move out. It is now so overgrown in trees and shrubbery that you would miss it all if it was not pointed out to you. He told us the story of how his sister lent a friend her car so he could return to his home to collect some belongings. Neither he nor the car were ever found as the mountain blew once again. We had one exceptional break when we were driving past one abandoned home and Joe saw people there he knew. He stopped, and next thing we are invited in to see a restoration project of a once magnificent home. It was just starting, and the workmen were digging out the volcanic ash from a balcony which had totally filled it to the top railing. They plan to restore the home and use it as a holiday place. When the family became displaced after the volcano they moved to Canada. The population of Montserrat before the volcano was 11,000. After it was reduced to 5,000 with those leaving heading for England and other shores.

Looking towards old capital, Plymouth, now buried
 

Golf
course under 30ft rubble
 

All and all we spent a good five hours touring around with the only guide on the Island who can give such a comprehensive commentary, as our guide had lived through this period. Joe thank you so very much. We recommend to all of you out there who are sailing in these waters to put Montserrat on your list. Also with guide Joe Phillip as the recommended guide. If it is possible for you to phone him before you arrive he will have a spectacular day planned for you. #1-(664)-494-1565, or email joephillip@live.com

On Friday 17^th August at first light we raise the anchor from Little Bay, Montserrat and say farewell to the Emerald Isle. We are off to Antigua.

Beach before eruption
 

Extended beach after eruption
 

Will sign out yet again and re-join you with more adventures soon

Love from

The Admiral and The Commander