Farewell Cuba - Cayo Largo |
Welcome Back
By 09.30 we are all checked out and motoring down the
channel to cross the lagoon, through the reef and into open waters. A bit different out here away from the
shelter of the lagoon. We have 2-3mts
seas with the waves hitting us side on from the S.E. Winds are gusting 22kts. but it is warm and
sunny. We are heading in a southerly
direction to Grand Cayman Island some 140nm away, so it will just be an
overnight sail. Yes we were able to sail
the whole way there under a nearly full moon.
By midnight the winds had dropped to 14kts and the temperature was a
barmy 26 deg. C.
On arriving at George Town Harbour the following morning,
which sits on the S.W. end of the Island in a big open bay, we are directed to
pick up a mooring buoy – no change of plan – they now want us to move SHAMAL
onto a concrete peer which we are not at all happy about. Plastic boats and concrete peers are NOT
compatible, especially when there is a swell surging you along the
peer!!!! Well that only lasts about 15
minutes when we tell them we are going back to the mooring buoy before we are
damaged. Thank goodness the guy who is
helping us agrees as he can see the predicament we are in. By mid-day we are all checked in having taken
the tender ashore to complete the paper work.
Everyone has been very polite and helpful. Later that day after a sleep, we head ashore
to find the supermarket which is only a few hundred metres from the public
dock. It is full of goodies which we
have not seen since we left the States, and has a wonderful selection on Gluten
Free products – yummy, but oh it is expensive here.
In the early days of our arrival we find out that our
daughter is able to bring the twin boys down for a holiday with us at the
beginning of April. This will be
wonderful as we have not seen them for six months. Unfortunately her husband cannot join us
due work. This will give us time to find nice beaches
and good swimming areas for the boys to play in.
Here we are sitting out in the Caribbean Sea on the top of a
seamount pinnacle coming up from the depths of the Cayman Trench – one of the
deepest sections of the ocean in the world at around 25,000 feet. Each of the three islands that make up the
Cayman group are encircled by a reef system. (We are only visiting Grand
Cayman) Depths go from beautiful sandy beaches quickly to 18ft – 25ft which one
can see so clearly as the waters are so pristine. Then it drops off from a vertical cliff into
waters over 6000ft. This place is a
mecca for divers. Also it has become a huge tourist attraction with cruise liners stopping off here nearly every
day of the week. We have seen up to six
anchored out off George Town at one time sitting just behind us. The guests are brought ashore in light
tenders. You can just imagen the number
of people in town on those days.
OK back to your History Lesson again. Christopher Columbus is said to have
discovered the Cayman Islands in 1503, but there is some doubt over this as the
islands have appeared on the 1502 Cantino map when Queen Isabella of Spain
authorised four voyages to the New World in 1499. Also with the Taino and Arawak Indians living
in adjacent regions and being proficient mariners, they most likely made visits
to the islands. Columbus named the
islands ‘Las Tortudas’ as they were home to thousands of sea turtles at the
time. In 1586 Sir Frances Drake stopped
in Grand Cayman which was still only inhabited by turtles, alligators and
crocodiles, and iguanas. The seize of
Jamaica by the British in 1654 saw the Cayman Islands also became a possession
of Great Britain in 1670. The 1600’s saw
the islands as an ideal hide-out for pirates who were attacking the treasure
galleons returning to Spain laden with gold and silver from the New World. In
the early 1700’s the first permanent settlement was established. A shipbuilding industry was started up for
interisland trade and turtling.
These were the main industries until the mid-20th
century. First it become a popular
divers destination, then the Caymanians fashioned a tax free structure that has
made Grand Cayman a “economic powerhouse” around the world. According to the local newspaper, the
population is now 57,000 people. There
are 300 plus banks represented here, one hundred thousand companies registered
, and ten thousand hedge funds registered.
So all of that along with tourism make this tiny dot in the Caribbean
Sea a millionaires playground. Then what
are the likes of us doing here. Well
thank goodness it still does cater for the lower end of the tourist
market. As I said earlier, we do find it
expensive here. The Cayman dollar is worth 20% more than the US. But if one is sensible and you don’t eat out
every night, one can find this a really lovely destination to add to the list
of sailing destinations around the Caribbean. Many come and don’t realise that
there are other anchorages one can get into beside the mooring field off George
Town. Many of the other yachties we have
met here are heading for Panama to transit the canal, or to Guatemala which has
a well-known marina out of the hurricane belt.
People leave their boats here for the summer and return after hurricane
season to continue sailing.
Boys off with Poppa for a tender ride |
We then moved to Starfish Point and again set off in the
tender to check out the beaches, playground, coffee shop etc. This area later became our “Treasure Island”
for the boys where we buried a big box of beach toys for the boys to dig up and
play with. I made a treasure map and
marked big X’s along a trail till they reached a flag with a big X on it
marking the spot. Lots of fun.
Then we moved SHAMAL through Governors Creek and into
Mitchells Creek. Actually they are lagoons
which have waterway sections going off them.
These areas are totally landlocked and very sheltered. One could easily be mistaken thinking they
were on the waterways in Florida – a incredible similarity. Here we were also just in very short walking
distance from a supermarket, and Seven Mile Beach (which is actually only five
miles long). It is lovely clean white
sands and pristine clean clear waters on the eastern side of the island. This was a perfect place for the boys to
play. We unpacked our bikes and rode
around much of the area getting supplies, spare parts, and generally looking
around. It truly is a beautiful place to
relax, swim snorkel or dive, and just enjoy some time out.
Matthew on winch |
From the boat we have seen the turtles swimming around. Also the Island is known for its blue
iguanas. They can grow up to a one meter
in length. We have seen a couple of
small ones basking on rock walls, but numbers have been dropping, so a program
has been set up at the Botanic Park for breeding.
Boys at Governors Beach |
Our week with Brigitte and the boys went all too quickly,
but we did manage to cram in a lot of activities for them. We spent a couple of nights in the marina
when they first arrived in North Sound, then moved around the island. We also sailed back to George Town so they
could see the huge cruise liners. We
picked up a mooring buoy off Seven Mile beach and took the tender ashore to
swim there. Alec Brigitte and I
snorkelled over a wreck off the beach there as well. We also went back into Mitchells Creek when
the winds changed, and were able to walk back to Seven Mile Beach.
It is now Easter. It
is quite strange to see, but on this tiny island the locals have a tradition of
going camping at Easter. The beaches
fill up with tents, kitchen equipment, outdoor furniture, BBQ’s and boxes of
food and drinks. They settle in for a
fun filled long weekend. We find then
on Seven Mile Beach. We move SHAMAL
back to Starfish Point, and again the beach is packed. Music blares well into the night, but
everyone is well behaved. We have
extended our visas stay here so we can choose a good weather window to sail
back to Cuba. Yes we have decided that
Mexico and Belize would have been great to visit. The run there would have been no problem,
BUT, the return trip to the Leeward Islands would be a hard slog!!!! So our plan now is to return to Cayo Largo
and continue sailing along the southern coast, then head out towards the Virgin
Islands.
So with our time on Grand Cayman nearly at an end, we will
sign out.
Poppa & William watching planes |
Love from
The Admiral and The Commander
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