Martinique and Grenada

The Battle of The Saintes
 

Hello Again
 

It is grey and overcast as we raise the anchor from Terra D’en Haut, The Saints. We had rain before dawn, and it looks like there are more squalls about. We are about to enter the Dominica Channel. It is only an 18nm run to the north end of Dominica, but these waters saw one of the great sea battles between the English and the French. There must be many a wreck sitting on the sea floor in these waters.

Local sail boats, Marin
 

It was called “The Battle of the Saints”. The year before – October 1781, Count de Grasse, commander of the French fleet, plays an important role in the war of Independence of the U.S.A. His victory at Chesapeake, shared with George Washington and others, leads to the surrender of Yorktown by the British. England has now lost its American colonies.

Forward to April 1782 and once again Count de Grasse and the English come face to face in yet another sea battle. The English had 36 vessels and a total of 2,640 canons, the French 31 vessels and 2,558 canons. The battle begins at around 0700, and is all over by about 1300. It takes until 1830 for the French to officially surrender. 7,000 men died in the battle. 22 English ships suffered a lot of damage, and France lost 7 of its ships. There is a magnificent painting in Fort Napoleon on the Saints of the battle.

Antigua, Guadeloupe and The Saintes

 

Sargasso weed off Antigua
 

Back again and still weather watching.

Friday 17^th August we leave Montserrat and sail the 32nm to Antigua. Well that was another interesting one. Not only were we contending with ESE winds, but also tons more of the dreaded Sargasso Weed. Again it was clogging the rudders and props slowing us right down at times. It has been interesting reading in the local yachting papers and the different Islands newspapers, how it is impacting the Caribbean this season. The wild life such as turtles are having trouble reaching the beaches to nest, and the baby hatchlings can’t make it back to the sea. The fishermen are also finding it affecting their catches. No wonder, as we can’t troll a lure without it becoming entangled every few minutes.

Nelson's Dockyard

Nelson's Dockyard
 

We arrive into English Harbour at 1400 and drop anchor in Ordinance Bay. Wow we have arrived in one of the most famous and historical harbours in the Caribbean. English Harbour, the historic home of Nelson’s Dockyard, to modern day and the famous Antigua Sailing Week which draws yachts and crew from all around the world. Well, where is everyone. The place is positively dead!! Nearly all the facilities are closed. Yes it is summer – the low season, but this is ridiculously low. We go ashore to check in with customs. They obviously want a short day as it is half an hour before closing, but we are told to come back tomorrow. We may wander around ashore, but not too far – really, thanks. Well there are plenty of opportunities to take photos with no one in them. Also we find the bank to top up the kitty with EC$ - that is the Eastern Caribbean dollar which is used on a few of the Islands we will be visiting.

Montserrat

Little Bay
 

 

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New Town above Little Bay
 

This was an Island which had not been on our itinerary. We wanted to go out to Antigua, and after reading the cruising guide were advised to sail down to Montserrat to get a better angle on the wind to head out to Antigua. Also it would make the trip shorter. Oh are we so glad we did this. Leaving Nevis we sailed out down the Islands eastern coast taking advantage of the winds, and not on the western side in the lee of the Island.

The 34nm leg was a good one and we dropped anchor just after lunch in Little Bay on the north western side of the Island. Plymouth, the old capital, and the waters around it and to the south of it – in fact over half the Island and its waters - are now in the exclusion zone due to volcanic activity. Little Bay in the north has now become Montserrat’s main port. The anchorage gave us excellent protection, but I understand it can be uncomfortable if winds are from the northeast.  Clearing in was nice and easy here.

St. Bart's (St. Barthelemy) St Kitts (St. Christopher) and Nevis

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SHAMAL at anchor, St. Bart's
 

 

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Fort Oscar
 

This delightful little French Island lies just 15nm slightly to the south east of St Maarten. For us – 30nm tacking on a close reach in winds of 25kts and 3mt seas, but a lovely warm sunny day with not a cloud in the sky. Just us, the frigate birds and the sapphire blue ocean with sparkling breaking tops of waves. Oh there are a couple more sails off on the horizon.

Gustavia Harbour
 

Gustavia
 

But once there it is well worth the visit. It is claimed to be the party Island for the very rich and famous who bring their super yachts into the picturesque harbour of Gustavia to spend Christmas and New Year here. High-end boutiques and upmarket restaurants line the quaint little streets, but for us as it is now the down season, much was closed while their owners take their summer breaks. We found a lovely restaurant for coffee and Wi-Fi. We must keep a very close eye on the weather. Our coffee was 8 euros each! My Nespresso machine on board makes a nicer latté. The whole place is lovely and clean with sidewalks, so one is not run over while browsing the shop windows. After walking right around the harbour, we climbed to the lighthouse at Fort Gustav which has lovely panorama views over the red-roofed buildings tucked around the harbour. Fort Oscar stands on the opposite side of the harbour, and one can see back to St Maarten and out to the Island of Saab to the South West.

Sint Maarten/St Martin

 

Leaving Leverick

 Bay
 

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Thursday 21^st June. 0600  We up anchor from Leverick Bay, Virgin Gouda in the BVI’s, and motor on out passing between Prickly Pear Island and Necker Island, the Island  owned by Sir Richard Branson. We are heading out across the Anegada Passage to St. Maarten, a leg of about 80nm, but with our familiar E. and E.S.E. winds we know the trip will be longer.

Sunset Anegada Passage. Virgin Gouda behind
 

Bridge opens into Simpson Lagoon
 

 It is not until after 1100 the next day with 156nm passing under the keels, that we drop anchor in Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten. The following morning we enter the lagoon at the 11.30 bridge opening and drop anchor in the rather murky waters. There are not too many boats in here now as we are in the low season (hurricane season) and most have moved on to destinations further south.  There will be no swimming in here. As it is now the weekend we will have to wait until Monday to see about getting our boat jobs started.