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November 2020: Shamal and her Crew have arrived safely back into Opua, Bay of Islands, New Zealand completing their circumnavigation a year ago. Due to Covid-19 and New Zealand's Boarders being closed, they will continue to spend their 2020/21 Summer exploring some of New Zealand's waters. Thanks to all of you for following our Adventures. There will be more.

01 September 2018

Sint Maarten/St Martin


 

Leaving Leverick

 Bay
 
Hello Again

Thursday 21st June. 0600  We up anchor from Leverick Bay, Virgin Gouda in the BVI’s, and motor on out passing between Prickly Pear Island and Necker Island, the Island  owned by Sir Richard Branson. We are heading out across the Anegada Passage to St. Maarten, a leg of about 80nm, but with our familiar E. and E.S.E. winds we know the trip will be longer.

Sunset Anegada Passage. Virgin Gouda behind
 
Bridge opens into Simpson Lagoon
 
 It is not until after 1100 the next day with 156nm passing under the keels, that we drop anchor in Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten. The following morning we enter the lagoon at the 11.30 bridge opening and drop anchor in the rather murky waters. There are not too many boats in here now as we are in the low season (hurricane season) and most have moved on to destinations further south.  There will be no swimming in here. As it is now the weekend we will have to wait until Monday to see about getting our boat jobs started.

At anchor in lagoon
 
Barge removing wrecks
 
First off our standard rigging is to be replaced. On Tuesday morning we move SHAMAL over to the FKG work dock. During our time here we work on other jobs while the rigging boys are at work. We have chandeliers within a short walking distance on either side of us which is a great help. Alec has decided he will upgrade our 5hp out-board motor on the tender to a larger one. Then a rather funny incident happens. Our tender is in the water tied on to the side of SHAMAL as we have been using it to cross the lagoon as we look for parts, and doing other jobs. One evening after work the boys in the rigging yard are kicking a ball around – we are now leading up to the finals of the World Cup and we have some want-a-be players out there. Well in their exuberance one kicks the ball over the top of the fence and into the water. A VERY big boy comes bounding down the dock and asks if he can jump into our tender to retrieve the ball. We are sitting on the back having our sun-downers. We say yes, but, he throws himself in. Oh help, the aluminium floor parts from the inflatable tube at the rear end on one side where it is glued together, causing water to come in. The guy just sits there. I thought he was going to end up sitting on the lagoon floor, but no he hops out with the ball and walks off to finish his game as if nothing had happened.  The following day Alec is off in search of someone to re-glue it for us. After many a conversation we are told it is not worth the while. The tender is made of PVC, and the glue does not hold out after continuous years of use in the tropics. This now means we will have to replace the tender as well as getting the up-grade outboard motor.

Hurricane
damaged boats in Lagoon
 
Sunk Super Yacht
 
But the story does not end there. There is a day charter boat parked on the dock in front of us. We have now pulled the tender out of the water and have it sitting on the dock. One of the guys from the charter boat shows some interest in the tender, and after a couple of days negotiating with Alec, he wants to buy it but without the outboard motor as 5hp is too small for him. Alec explains over and over about how it will need to be repaired, and that the repair job may only hold together for a short time. No, he will take it thanks. They lower it into the water and as it has now been sitting in the sun for a few days the inflated tubes are nice and tight, so it floats perfectly – no water comes in!!  He is happy, and off he goes with it tied to the back of his boat. We have not seen him since! We have kept the outboard for the time being.

New Tender
 
We now are the owners of a new hypalon 3.2mt tender, slightly longer and wider than the old one, and a Tohatsu 9.8hp out-board which gets us up on the plane nicely. We are now zooming around the lagoon now we have done the hours to run it in.

It is now just over a week we have been on the rigging dock, and that work is complete. We had to wait for a part to be flown in from Florida. Tuesday July 3rd and we have a “weather system” developing out in the Atlantic to the east of us. Sitting here and seeing all the damaged boats around us from hurricane Irma last year, is enough for one to start feeling very uncomfortable!!!! By Thursday p.m. our system has formed into a hurricane –“ Beryl”. It looks like it will pass to the south of us, somewhere around Dominica or Martinique. Still one can never tell their final direction until they are almost upon you. Time to move off this concrete dock and anchor out in the lagoon with plenty of extra chain on the bottom.

We sit out in the lagoon over the weekend. At 0100 on Monday 9th July Beryl passes over Martinique having been down-graded to a Tropical Storm with wind gusts of 60kts. We get the rain here, but wind not in excess of 40kts.  We can now breathe again and get on with the next major job.

Boys working on water tank
 
Job well done
 
This time we park SHAMAL on the Lagoon Marina Dock so the boys can fix our leaking water tank. This involves cutting a hole in the saloon floor to access it. It is a major job, but done so professionally. We are able to use our original flooring again. Alec and I are so impressed with the job done by Thomas and his team. The cost of the job was also extremely reasonably.

The next major job was to replace our water maker membranes. They had done a great job for the last 10 years, but had come to the end of their life. The hitch we had with a jumpy chart plotter and some instruments that only wanted to work at times, was solved by an electrician when he upgraded our AIS and GPS.  We have both receiver and transponder now. We also decide to replace our anchor chain while sitting at the dock.

Hurricane damaged Seawind
 
While sitting on the dock we are visited by a guy who is looking after repair work to be done on another Seawind 1160. It was damaged during Irma, but he says how strongly built they are, and the damage was limited to the mast coming down and debris flying about. A broken saloon window allowed water in which also caused damage. We went and had a look. Other boats in the yard   definitely had substantial more damage, but it is sad to see any boat wrecked.

There are still a few smaller jobs to complete. Well actually one learns very quickly in this field, that your list is never complete. You cross a job off the top of the list, and add two to the bottom!!!!

Mads, Alec, Larry
 
More Damage
 
During our time here it is not all work. We catch up with good friends we first met in Mexico, then on the Rio in Guatemala. They have their boat “Blue Pearl” anchored on the French side of the Lagoon. We do a trip by local bus to Philipsburg – Dutch side – to take a look. We also take the tender across the lagoon to the French side for visits. Some shopping, some site seeing. Crossing the lagoon one is passing still so many damaged boats, but also a work barge, who is lifting boats to be used as landfill somewhere. We are told that just after Irma passed through, the site was unbelievable. So many lives were lost. One sad story was of a couple and their baby who stayed on their large mono yacht. The yacht sunk and both parents were drowned, but they had put a lifejacket on the baby who was found alive on the beach the next day. The government actually made an announcement for people not to talk about the true numbers of deaths as it could have a bad effect on tourism. Alec read online that 35 people had died, but a local Doctor told us that there were hundreds. It was not only from boats, but people were sucked from their hotel rooms as windows exploded with the tornados that were within Irma.  
Philipsburg
 



Markets in Philipsburg
 
Alec and I also visit a dentist who does superb work for a very reasonable price.


After all the major jobs are complete we move SHAMAL back outside the lagoon to Simpson Bay. Here the water is clean and we can swim again. Also we can get the water maker up and running. SHAMAL has grown a bit of a “garden” on her hulls from sitting in the lagoon which we can now remove.

Alec now hopes since we have done the majority of major jobs on SHAMAL, like replacing the sails, solar panels upgraded, rigging done, new water maker membranes etc. We should be good for another ten years. We just need to re- anti foal the hulls again before we leave the Caribbean for the long haul across the South Pacific.
Simpson
 Bay
 

Marigot, French Side
 
As it is the summer holidays in this part of the world, many locals are leaving for their breaks, but also the Island is having its share of visitors.  The big Cruise Ships are still calling in here. The bar on the beach in front of us has a band each night, but my ear plugs work well!!! The other night was karaoke night. Help I sincerely hope the majority of those people do not give up their day jobs!!!!

Australian owned yacht
 
Fort St Louis
 
Our days are still busy, and we watch the Atlantic weather like a hawk each day, ready to leave here at any time if the need arises. It is now our last weekend on St. Maarten. We decide we will circumnavigate the lagoon in the tender. It is so much bigger than we thought. As we pass under the lagoons major bridge we spot the yacht owned by an Australian which was washed ashore during Irma, and is now high and dry right at the airport runway end of the bridge. What was odd was the guy was living aboard still, with his family. It was removed a few days later - after nine months. Not the most ideal spot for a cruiser to spend any time a board. We stop on the French side for coffee, then climb the hill to Fort St. Louis. The view is spectacular. We can see across to the Island of Anguilla, all around Marigot, the capital of the French side, and over the lagoon.

View of Marigot &Lagoon
 
Our next destination is St Bart. It is only about 15nm to the S.E. of us, but it will be nice to be on the move again.

This is The Admiral and The Commander signing out for now.


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