Sail Away With Us: Grenada To Santa Marta, Colombia

Hello To You All Once Again

Shamal in Grenada

Grenada

Well the time finally came where we were as ready as one could be ( so we thought ) to head on out for the next leg of our Adventures. We had dived to check the hulls and give the props a good clean. The new water maker pump had been installed, and we had even delayed our departure by a day as we had an engineer on board looking at the electro magnetic clutch, which was causing a problem. Alec got the water maker sort of working, but he decided we needed to start moving and he would check it out along the way!! Then one morning just before departure my Nespresso coffee machine would not work properly. We had just had the new inverter installed, so put it down to the cloudy days, but really our 1,000 watt solar panels are pretty good plus we have the wind generator. We started an engine to boost the batteries and I got my morning coffee fix. There were the usual dinners and drinks to farewell new and old friends, then on Saturday 2^nd February we moved SHAMAL off her mooring and over to the marina to take on water, just in case the water maker didn’t behave. We check out of Grenada, then spent the last of our local money on a few more supplies.

Fishing on way to Bonaire

It wasn’t till after 1300 that we finally motored out of the bay, put the sails up, and set on a heading to the first of the A B C Islands – Bonaire. We set a course north of our rhumb line to keep off the coast of Venezuela due to the political problems they are having at the moment. Also it gave us the advantage of a lovely broad reach to down wind run. From the sailing point of view it was a great run, BUT, other issues arose which were not so great. After dark we were obviously in an area where the Grenadian Fisherman were working, but that proved no problems. It was just a case of keeping well away from their boats and set nets, which were well lit with the usual flashing lights in an array of different colours. In the early hours of that first morning, the radar decided not to work. There was some shipping about which we could pick up on the AIS, and we were far enough off the coast not to be around small craft. We just ran an engine for a while and the radar was up and running again. So why had the batteries dropped so low? Second afternoon we did a tack and the wind direction instrument stopped working. Then about an hour later it was working fine! That night we only turned the radar on from time to time to check shipping. Later I tried to make coffee with my machine, trouble doing that again. Then to top it all off, again at night, the chart plotter dies on us. We do have a back up on the iPad with Blue Charts which are very good, but with no A I S or radar overlay. Again on another tack the wind instrument stopped working. Help the gremlins are having a field day with us at the moment. The chart plotter would come and go being quite spasmodic in working.

Bonaire

Flamingo made from rubbish,
Bonaire

We arrived into Bonaire just before midnight. We are never too happy arriving into a new place after dark. There was no moon. Thank goodness the coastline of Bonaire is rock free where one comes in. Here the reef system runs right along the shore. We had to pick up a mooring buoy as no anchoring is permitted due to the entire island being designated a National Park. As I said it was a very dark night, but as the moorings are close to the shore, the street lights shone out over the bay. We could only find one marked “Private”, but that did till morning when we moved to a correct one. We were now sitting in beautifully clean clear waters which makes for great swimming and snorkelling right off the back of the boat. We had covered 456nm on that leg.

Cruise Ship, Bonaire

On our three day sail to Bonaire I had my fishing rod out. For the first few hours, nothing. Then I had a BIG strike. What ever it was took a mass of a lot of line. Then ping, line snapped. I have no idea what it was, but I was really really mad. I had just put a new spool of braid onto my reel. I have now made up a new hand line using a light weight rope with a very heavy wire trace! Alec says I will now be hauling in something we either really don’t want – like a shark, or something too big to bring on board. Never mind Alex, I want to see it before we let it go.

Bonaire is a delightful place, but now we have a mountain of problems to sort. Unfortunately we spend our time here seeing if anything can be done. We soon realise we need to move onto the next Island of Curacao which we hope has the expertise we need. We don’t get to do a trip of the island to see the wildlife. It is known as the Nature Island. I was looking forward to seeing the pink flamingos and the salt flats, but I do enjoy our time in the small capital of Kralendijk. Bonaire has a strong Dutch influence, along with that of African and South American peoples. Pretty cottages painted in strong pastel shades and the usual tourist shops line the waterfront street. Cruise Ships call in here nearly every day.

Bonaire

The Arawaks lived here for centuries before the Spanish laid claim to the island in 1499. The Dutch moved in and took control in 1634 as they saw a future in salt production. Thousands of slaves were brought in and worked in horrific conditions. At the south end of the island a few surviving huts still remain. When slavery was abolished the salt factories closed, but reopened again after WWII with machines doing the hard work. Now tourism and diving have given the island a new boost to the economy.

The people are friendly and helpful, but cannot really help us. Alec spends time online looking for sources. We have decided we will replace the chart plotter. Our model is not made anymore. ( The Raymarine C120 ) There is a company in the States that does repair them. We will order a second hand one from them and send ours away to be fixed as a backup. The trouble with buying one of the new updated ones, is that our radar is not compatible with them. Also some of our other instruments may not be. We also need to have the batteries properly checked over to make sure they are Ok. Then there are all the other things which we hopefully will get checked out in Curacao. Oh yes, the water maker is also on the list for there. It ran well for half an hour, then decided that was enough!

Bonaire

Before we left Bonaire, while sitting relaxing one evening, a cockroach the size of a mouse flew in for a visit. Oh help, up until now they have been a rare site, and one other that flew in some time ago was promptly killed. With this one out came the spray and it was blasted. I then spent the next hour emptying things looking for it. No luck. Only trouble is I am not sure if he scuttled away before getting the full blast, which means he just might have moved into the bilge? I have since purchased four mouse/insect glue pads. Time will tell if it was looking for a new home to start a family! These creatures really are yachties nightmares.

Great idea for shopping trolley,
Bonaire

Again we met up with some lovely cruisers here and enjoyed the social side of cruising. After four very short days here the captain wants to move on to Curacao. It only lies 40nm to the west of Bonaire so will make for a nice daylight sail. Also this is to be the last day for a while where the winds are forecast to be around 20kts. The weather will be changing after that. And yes, the forecast is correct. As we round the bottom of the Island and heading for the safe anchorage in Spanish Water on Curacao, the winds are already picking up. Also the chart plotter has stopped working again! We come in through the narrow entrance with our iPad with Garmin Blue Charts installed on it. Once inside it opens up into a large area with many bays. There are marinas and boat clubs everywhere. The anchorages cover a big area as well. We find a good spot to drop anchor after having to negotiate our way through a group of small racing yachts having their Sunday races, and wind surfers darting back and forth across the bay.

Willemstad, Curacao

Mural, Curacao

To check into the country we needed to catch a local bus to Willemstad, the capital. It takes us two hours to complete the process as one needs to walk from one side of the harbour to the other crossing the Queen Emma Floating pontoon bridge, to visit Customs on one side, and Immigration on the other. The bridge does swing open to allow shipping to the docks, the oil terminal, and for small craft to Curacao Marine.

Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge

Curacao, along with the rest of the ABC islands was discovered in 1499 by the Spanish. The poor Arawaks were either wiped out or sent else were to work in mines. Again like many of the islands of the Caribbean, all in sundry wanted to occupy it. British, French and Dutch all occupy it for a time, and even Venezuelan rebels have a short stay here in 1829, but the Dutch won out in the end. During WWII the Dutch installed anti-aircraft guns on the Waterfront of Willemstad and used it as a base to protect the Shell oil refinery. They also placed steel cables across the harbour entrance to deter German submarines.

Venezuelan Fruit Vendors

Here we are sitting 35NM off the coast of Venezuela. It is the largest of the three islands. Dutch is the official language, but English and Spanish are widely spoken. Curacao is the commercial island. It has a population of approximately just over 160.000 people. The shopping is very good. It reminds me of being in the Cayman Islands with well stocked supermarkets. I am able to stock up from a great selection of gluten free goodies. The old town with its narrow streets and lovely restored buildings again painted in pastel colours, is fun to explore. Along one of the side canals the Venezuelan fruit and vegetable vendors have set up markets from their boats with a delightful array of goodies. Here the avocado are the biggest we have ever seen. Also Alec found monstrous mangoes. See photos. From the tender dock we are using at the local fishing boat marina, a free van runs each week day to the supermarket. We can also catch the local bus into Willemstad, a ride of about half an hour, which only costs only US$1.00.

Mangoes

Huge Avocado

Early in the first week we visit Curacao Marine which is situated inside the bay behind Willemstad. We arrange to bring SHAMAL around here the following week to check out our electrics. The trip from Spanish Water to Curacao Marine is about 10nm. When you arrive at the entrance to St Anna Bay, more of a channel than a bay which leads into Schottegat, the large commercial harbour, one has to call up for the Queen Emma pontoon bridge to swing open for you. We were given a corner berth in the marina which was a little interesting getting into. Then the fun began. An electrician was called. Unfortunately he had no idea what our problem was, or the correct equipment to check things properly. In fact by the time he had finished, our inverter was not working at all. Alec with the help of an Australian yachtie managed to get it back online again. Also after a good charge to the batteries on shore power, they have been holding their charge since then. We just hope by the time we reach Panama, we can find someone to check things over properly!!!!

Approaching Willemstad

Willemstad

We stayed in the marina for five nights, enjoying the Friday night BBQ and meeting up with others, many heading towards Panama as well. On the Saturday we return to Spanish Water and drop anchor again. Alec just wants to check that all is well to continue on. Our replacement chart plotter has arrived, but he won’t fit that until he is doubly sure that the electrics are OK. Funny thing, the old one is working well at the moment again!!

Shamal in Curacao Marine

On the Monday we return into town to check out. We visit the Historic Maritime Museum which is extremely interesting. It is then on to buy fruit and vegetables at the floating markets from the Venezuelan vendors before heading back to SHAMAL.

Then on Tuesday 26^th February it is time to move on. We have decided to give the third Island of Aruba a miss, and continue directly to Santa Marta in Colombia. As we sail along the southern coast of Aruba we have the local Dutch Coast Guard flying low over us to check us out. Again that night they pay us a visit, then once again the following morning they pay us yet another visit.

Passing the Island of Aruba

The seas become quite “interesting” once we round Punta Gallinas and start the run down the coast towards Santa Marta. The seas are following, between 2-3mts. With breaking tops. We are surfing down waves at 12 kts. at times. The old chart plotter is playing up at times, and the wind instrument is reading from 0 – 80kts. I can assure you the true wind speed has not been above 25kts. Oh the joys of life on the ocean wave!!

Oil/Gas Drill Ship off Venezuela

We are surprised at how cold it gets at night. The temperature drops to around 23deg.c. but the wind chill factor has us wearing a light weight jacket on the night watch. We are also throwing the bodies of flying fish overboard in the morning.

On the Thursday afternoon after loosing the wind, we motor into the busy harbour of Santa Marta. A belt on the STBD engine is slipping making a horrid noise, so we ask permission to anchor outside the marina and will come in the next morning. Alec just needs to tighten it. It takes the Harbour Master some time to give us a position. We drop anchor where he tells us, and then he promptly tells us to move. During the second drop, the drop control button by the helm dies on us. So now we can raise it, but only drop it from the windless. I tell you there can’t be anything else to go wrong.