French Polynesia

Hello to you all once more.

Bastille Day, Nuku Hiva

French Polynesia – A French overseas territory consisting of about 130 tropical islands strewn over some four million square kilometres in the South Eastern Pacific Ocean. It is made up of five main groups.

The Marquesas Islands are the most northerly sitting between 8deg.-11deg. south of the equator. They are high volcanically formed islands of which there are twelve.

The Tuamotu Archipelago is made up of approximately 78 islands, all but two being coral atolls. The atolls are made up of coral reefs and motu (small coral islands on which many have been planted with coconut palms) surrounding beautiful lagoons. Many have one or two navigable passes into these lagoons. They lie around 550 miles south east of the Marquesas and extend almost 1,000 miles in a NW-SE direction.

Tuamotus

The Gambier Islands are located at the south eastern end of the Tuamotu Archipelago, and situated 1,700km east of Tahiti. This group of 5 high islands and 18 motu lie in a lagoon surrounded by a single coral reef. As they are close to the Tropic of Capricorn-25deg. south of the equator, lush vegetation and fruit trees thrive here.

The Society Islands lie approximately 250 miles west of the Tuamotu Archipelago. This group is made up of twelve major islands and divided into the Windward and Leeward Islands. The main islands of the Windwards are Tahiti and Moorea. The main islands of the Leewards are Raiatea and Tahaa, Bora-Bora, and Huahine. The Society group are a mixture of high volcanic islands, and atolls. They extend over 400 miles.

Tuamotus

Lastly, the Austral Islands. This group are spread along the Tropic of Capricorn for over 800miles. There are 5 islands, some surrounded with a reef and lagoon. Again their situation makes for fertile lands where coffee, oranges and tropical fruits are grown.

As for our visit, we are given a three month visa on arrival into French Polynesia. There is no way we can explore this vast area, so time will tell just how much we can see.

It is quite incredible to think that centuries ago people known as the Polynesians, believed to have originated from Taiwan, island hopped across the Pacific in outriggers packed up with families carrying chickens, dogs, pigs, an array of fruit and vegetables, personal belongings, and, were able to be guided by clouds, seas, stars, winds and seabirds, island hoping across thousands of miles of ocean. These Maritime feats were not to be matched by Europeans for more than 1000 years. It is believed the Europeans ventured into this region in 1595. Various sailing ships came and returned reporting on a new found “paradise “. A British ship, the “Dolphin” arrived into Tahiti in June of 1767, stayed only a few weeks but claimed Tahiti for Britain. A French ship arrived in April of 1768 unaware that the Union Jack had been raised, so claimed Tahiti for France. So the ships kept coming – the missionaries, the whalers, the traders. Captain Cook also visited the region.

Baie Atuana, Hiva Oa

In 1789 the mutiny on the “Bounty” occurred after Bligh’s crew had spent six long months on Tahiti waiting for the breadfruit season so they could carry the fruits on to the Caribbean. The crew were not happy with conditions aboard the Bounty, or with the harsh treatment from the captain, so he and some of his crew were set adrift in an open boat. Missionaries arrived from both England and France trying to convert the islanders from the vices brought in by the traders and explores. But in doing so they also destroyed many parts of their culture by prohibiting traditional dancing, singing and tattooing. A local family, the Pomares, ruled Tahiti for four generations. When Queen Pomare died in 1877, her son had little interest in the position and abdicated in 1881. The French were extending their power at this stage, and the year before had declared the area an overseas territory. It wasn’t until 1957 that the area officially became French Polynesia.

Baie Atuona

France began nuclear tests above ground on Moruroa Atoll in 1966. Many countries were outraged and international pressure caused the French to conduct underground testing. Moruroa and Fangataufa Atolls were used. These tests began to crack the atolls and there was international concern the nuclear material would leak into the sea. Eventually after protests including Greenpeace in which their ship the “Rainbow Warrior”, was bombed in Auckland New Zealand by French intelligence agents in 1985, there was enough international pressure for the testing to cease. But this did not happen until 1996.

The Marquesas Islands

Atuona, Hiva Oa

The Marquesas are the northernmost group of islands forming part of French Polynesia. They consist of twelve islands covering an area of approximately 492 square miles. These islands do not have the barrier reefs or lagoons as the other island groups have. Volcanically formed, their spectacular sculptured mountains rise dramatically from the cobalt-blue seas with towering cliffs, some rising over a thousand feet from the ocean. Emerald green forests cover large areas of these mountains and valleys, and coconut plantations are scattered around many of the bays. But sadly also large areas of deforestation have occurred where the wild goats, cattle and pigs have munched vegetation away to the very roots leaving a desert like landscape. These animals originally brought in by the early sailing ships so there would be fresh meat to be had on future voyages.

Atuona, Hiva Oa

We are sitting only 08 deg. south of the equator. The climate is perfect. The day temperature is between 27-30 deg. c. and at night it drops between 24-26 deg. c.

The population of the whole group of these islands is around 7,800 people. The Island of Tahuata, just 2.5nm south of Hive Oa, is our first stop. The anchorage is in the bay of Hana Moe Noe. There are coconut palms along the shore, and clear turquoise waters lapping onto a beautiful white sandy beach. Manta rays swim around the bay frolicking in the warm waters and are so graceful to watch.

Hiva Oa

After Tahuata, we sailed across to Baie Atuona on Hive Oa to check into the country. It does have a breakwater to protect the bay, BUT, a horrid backwash effect occurs due to the seas pounding cliffs on one side then rebounding into the bay. Everyone puts out a small stern anchor to hold them in place. Where we were, the mud bottom was just too soft, and our stern anchor would just not hold. As the supply ship had already visited that week, we just sat on our main anchor in front of the Wharf swinging to the wind while everyone else more or less pointed the say way. We decided this would be a very quick visit where we would check in and pick up a few supplies. Now remember, here we are in the middle of nowhere. After checking in, which was an efficient and very quick service, we headed to the supermarket. Here we found “Tip Top” New Zealand hokey pokey ice-cream, which for us Kiwis is an icon, but also Gluten Free vogels bread.  We stayed three days then left having seen very little here. Never mind, a better anchorage need to be sort. But we did attend the Wednesday night cruisers BBQ put on by Sandra, a local girl who looks after the cruisers. Part way up the hill from the bay, she has a container which is set up as her office, bar, etc. and she has a good Wi-Fi coverage for us. Also it has outstanding views looking over the bay and to the main township of Atuona.  Unfortunately also while here, our fridge decided to die on us. Thank goodness we had brought a portable fridge box in Dubai many years back to keep our vegetables in on the longer crossings. It works from the 12 volt outlet. It is not quite as cold as the fridge, but it works. So until we reach Tahiti it will have to make do.

Hanamenu, Hiva Oa

We decided to head back to Hana Moe Noe where we could relax, swim and clean off the brown stain along the waterline that all yachts seem to get as they cross this section of the Pacific.

It was a lovely time also to catch up with old, and make new friends, and compare notes of the crossing. Also to find out about new anchorages around the Marquesas Islands.

Time to move on again. We sail up to the NW corner of Hive Oa to Baie Hanamenu. This bay has massive steep high cliffs on each side with a black sand beach at the head. There is a coconut plantation and a couple of houses. It starts to rain so we remain on board for the afternoon. It is just a night stop to put us a little closer to our next island.

Airport, Ua Pou

It is grey and overcast the next morning when we up anchor. Once out of the bay we have a squall line bearing down on us. We have rain on and off for the next three hours. We have second reef in the main, but the winds are light. By mid-afternoon the sun is out and we have a school of porpoise with us. I have had the fishing line out, but nothing around today. We arrive into Baie D’Hakahau, the main port and harbour on the island of Ua Pou. It has been a 60nm run. Oh help, possibly not the best choice of places. There is no room in the small anchorage behind the breakwater and wharf. A small coastal trader is in port, so he needs room to manoeuvre out. We are left with no choice but to anchor on the exposed side of this bay. It can’t get worse, but it does. Our anchor down button decides not to work. Now I will have to do it manually. That takes me time as I have not needed to do that before. Poor Alec motors around while I figure it all out. An hour and a half later we are anchored and holding after a couple of attempts. Things got a little heated there for a while with my reaction to drop the anchor in the correct place not quite working out. At least the up button is still working. Another job added to the list. We now spend a terrible night here with surf crashing onto the rocks behind us. We actually sleep up top so if we have to move in a hurry we can!

Manfred with his Chocolate

Next morning we are out of there bright and early. Actually it is not very bright as we have squalls about again today. We sail around to the northwest coast to Baie Hakahetau and drop anchor in much calmer waters. I am getting more practice at this anchor dropping. My technique is not good, but it sort of works. One just has to keep ones fingers well clear of the chain as it speeds out.

Cocoa Pods

Later that afternoon we go ashore to visit the village. It is beautifully clean and tidy. The roads and gardens are swept clean. We meet a Norwegian family from another yacht in the bay, who are on their way up a valley to visit the chocolate farm run by German Manfred and his local wife.  We are invited to join them. He has a very basic set-up three miles up the valley growing everything imaginable, along with cats, dogs, hens and horses. His home is powered by the most basic water driven generator. And, he grows cocoa making the most delicious chocolate. He gave us many samples, and we left loaded with an array of different flavours – mango, ginger, pepper and coffee were just some of them. He also gave us a bag of star fruit. These were small sweet ones.

View of Ua Pou from Baie Hakahetau

The next day Alec works on the anchor switch. Now it does not work at all from the helm! The whole thing has fallen apart. But the deck up button on the deck is still working. Oh well, we will manage.

Anchored at Ua Pou

Next Island is Nuku Hiva 26nm to the north of here.  This is the principal island of the Marquesas and its main port is Taiohae. It is also the Marquesas administrative capital. Again we are dropping anchor with squalls around us. There are at least 30 yachts in here in Taiohae. It is very scenic here. The longer one stays in these islands, the more impressive they become. Again we are anchored in a bay with spectacular mountains rising dramatically around us.

Nuku Hiva

Tender dock & internet café, Nuku Hiva

As the weather improves, we venture out to visit the local area. We met a local girl, Yolan, who invites us home for lunch, then off to forage fruits from local gardens. First she takes us to her parent’s home where mango trees drip with ripe fruits. She fills the first bag. Then we climb the hill well above the bay to her house with views to die for overlooking the bay. She prepares a raw tuna dish marinated in fresh coconut milk. Desert is fresh mangoes and coffee. Then off we set to collect more fruits. We arrive back at her house laden with papayas, bananas, star fruit, coconuts, passion fruit, pomegranate, and pomelo. We also have tasted other fruits along the way. Now we have the job to carry it all back to the boat. See photo of how that was achieved.

Yolan and Alec with our fruit

Lunch at Yolan's house

Yolan also takes us to Tohua Koueva, a sacred place of the ancient Marquesas. It is surrounded by banyan trees and there are some stone carved tiki. It is quite fascinating as we are looking at a miniature of one the same that is found on Easter Island. It just goes to show how long ago these islands were inhabited, and how inter island travel was well developed back then. Today the local population have very little knowledge, if any, of their ancestors.

Tohua Koueva

Banyan Tree, Tohua Koueva

After some time sitting in BaieTaiohae, we decided to up anchor and move around to the north coast of Nuku Hiva to Anaho. S/Y “Alesea” decide they will come with us. This is a large pretty bay with an excellent anchorage. It is only accessible by boat, or one can hike over the hill from the next bay. It has the only coral reef on Nuku Hiva with a small lagoon with tender access to the beach. It truly is picture postcard pretty, again with those spectacular mountain peaks forming a backdrop. On our way up the eastern side of the island, I catch a lovely big Wahoo. It is over a metre long and takes a bit to get it on board. Alec guts it and cuts it up into fat steaks. “Alesea” arrive earlier into the bay than us and wonder what takes us so long. We are able to hand them over their dinner, which explains our later arrival.

Our Wahoo

Anaho

The following day we go ashore to explore, and decide rather than climb over the hill to the next bay which has a village, we will take our boats around the next morning. It is grey and overcast when we up anchor, and looks like rain is looming once again, but off we go. It is only a five mile trip. As we drop anchor a heavy squall passes over, but then out comes the sun again. We are in Baie Atiheu. The bay again is dominated by souring mountains, and the village of Atiheu has pretty colourful neat gardens. The anchorage is great so we tender ashore to the local wharf, then set off to see the archaeological site of Hikokua which sits just above the village. Again we are looking at the site of an ancient civilian with tiki and petroglyphs. Again, the rains come down. We all look like drowned rats as we enter a local restaurant for lunch.

Hatiheu, Baie Atiheu

Baie Atiheu

We return to Baie Anaho for the night, then the next day sail back to Taiohae. It is Bastille Day (July 14^th) this coming weekend and we have “heard” the build-up. It turns into a long weekend of events, very Polynesian Style, but that is what we expected. Lots of local dancing, out-rigger races across the bay, a parade along Main Street that is the water front, from decorated floats, to people on horseback. Then of course all the local feasting. It was a grand weekend with a ton of time and energy put in by the local community.

Bastille Day, Polynesian Style

Bastille Day

We have now been in the Marquesas for a month. It really is time to leave this region and set sail for the Tuamotu Archipelago. There is just one more place to visit before we leave. It is a small bay just five miles to the west of Taiohae.  We up anchor and head for Daniel’s Bay. You enter this bay with a 1,000 ft. mountain raising straight out of the ocean to port, and turn starboard into one of the most sheltered anchorages in the Marquesas. We have come in here to walk up the Hakaui valley to see the Vaipo Waterfall which plunges 2,000 ft. from the top of the escarpment to the valley floor. A group of eleven of us set out. It is a two and a half hour hike, first through a tiny settlement of neat well-manicured gardens of tropical fruits and vegetables, and coconut palms. We then wade through a river and start the slight incline up the valley floor in tropical rainforest passing ruined pai-pais (stone village foundations) from a by- gone era. As we reach the head of the valley, the huge mountains close in on you and you are spending more time wading through water. Once we returned to the starting point, I had organised lunch for us all provided by a local family. We sat in their garden while tuna was grilled on the BBQ, which was served with a papaya salad and baked breadfruit, and washed down with fresh pomelo juice. Pomelo are the largest fruit of the citrus family. They are about the size of a small football with thick light green skin. Their juice and flesh are like that of a sweet grapefruit. They are grown all over the Marquesas, and a favourite with sailors as they keep for ages. Nearly everyone leaving these islands carry large numbers of them. You see them in nets swinging above the stern.

Start of our waterfall walk

Waterfall walk

Now we must leave. We are traveling with another catamaran to the Tuamotu Archipelago. They have had some misadventures since leaving Mexico. They broke both their rudders, which the captain has spent the last five weeks

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Vaipo Waterfall

building new ones. Their boat design is not a conventional one to say the least. It is 50ft with two large deep rudders about 7ft long, and two 40hp outboards on the back. He tells us it is a real performance catamaran, so they will more than likely be miles ahead of us! Never mind, he says he has lost some confidence and would enjoy our company.  So, we make a rote plan. This is important as there are about 78 atolls. They are low-lying, many becoming visible only when one is within a few miles. Most have coral reefs awash on some side and are only seen when you are nearly on top of them. So this is where radar comes in very handy, and a good look out is important. We get together and decide our first atoll will be Kauehi. We leave with Alec having given waypoints and positions of two atolls we will pass between in the dark before a morning arrival at our destination. There will be no problems there, as we will clear theses two atolls well off.  They do not have radar on their boat. It will only be a two day sail, arriving at the reef entrance on the morning of day three. They leave about half an hour before us. We have a small problem hoisting the main, but once that is sorted we are on our way. We are under full main and jib, they are flying their big Genoa. They sit about three miles ahead of us, but keep moving out to Starboard more and more during the day. We keep radio contact and confirm our heading. Nightfall, we gain on them and slowly pass. The following morning we get a radio call from them to tell us their AIS is not reading correctly. It is showing us to be 12nm ahead, where it should be reading we are sitting 12nm behind them. No, ours is showing you are 12 nm behind us, but also too far to starboard.  We are told that can’t be as they have the performance cat! Again we give them our heading and waypoints. He tells us they had strong winds during the night which blew out their Genoa. We must have been just ahead of the bad weather, as we did not need to reef. The second night we totally lose them from the AIS. Our last reported position of them was 21nm behind us, and we can only make broken radio contact. We gather they are fine having done a sail change to a reefed main. The following morning we are at our waypoint just outside the reef, so continue in, cross the lagoon and drop anchor off the village. All day we wait for them to arrive. The following morning we pick up the AIS of another boat we know so call them up and ask them to try and make radio contact. They do, and tell us they have arrived at a different atoll that morning. They had sailed past Kauehi before daylight, so kept going.  We were angry, but relieved that they were OK. The excuses came later!

Kauehi, Tuamotus

On this leg, we did catch a small black skipjack tuna which we put back. Later we caught a lovely big fat 8kg. yellow fin tuna.

Kauehi, Tuamotus

Kauehi was delightful. If we thought that arriving at the Marquesas was paradise, well the Tuamotu Islands are something else.  The different shades from turquoise to a brilliant sapphire blue in the lagoons lapping white or pink sandy beaches surrounded by motus with coconut palms to the waters edge. And with the ocean bringing in thunderous surf onto coral reefs. We spent five days here. The village was small, and the locals delightful. They make a living from the copra and supplying fresh fish to the Papeete market. We moved SHAMAL from one end of this oval shaped atoll to the other end. Again exploring the reefs and uninhabited Motus.

Hermit Crab, Fakarava

Black Tip Reef Shark, Fakarava

The next atoll was Fakarava. This is the second largest Tuamotu atoll being 32 miles long and 15 miles wide. Again the reef entrance was well marked. We did have an “interesting “entry into this one as the tide was still running out. It created quite choppy waters for about 200mts. Once through that we had rain and head winds as we motored to the first anchorage in front of the village. Then it was off to explore again. There are just under a thousand inhabitants here. The yachting community is well looked after. There are also a number of pearl farms here. These atolls are where most of the Tahitian black pearls come from. They are visited by supply ships about once a week from Tahiti, so all three of the supermarkets are reasonable well stocked.

Fakarava

We travel the length of the atoll. There is a pass also at the southern end off the village of Tetamanu, where at slack water you can take your tender out into the middle of the pass and dive or snorkel in on the incoming tide. The fish life along the drop-off to the channel was amazing, especially the number of black tip reef sharks. Then we moved to a place called Hirifa, which is one of the safest and most beautiful anchorages in the area. It is one of those places you arrive at and just don’t want to leave. But unfortunately for us, time was passing, and we still had the Society Islands to visit. We had spent too long here to actually visit other atolls.

Entering Papeete Harbour

It is now Monday 12^th August as we make ready for our departure to Papeete. We have timed our departure so we will be going through the reef pass on the out-going tide. That went without any problems. That leg was only 262nm and we pass into the lagoon off Papeete after receiving a clearance from port control. We motor inside the reef to the anchorage off Marina Tania, having to get clearance from “air and port control” as we are passing both the east and west ends of the airport runway. This is a huge anchorage with over a hundred yachts either at anchor or sitting on a mooring buoy.

Papeete anchorage

It is here we meet up with another “Seawind” 1160 – Mark and Isobel off “Jolly Dogs”. Their boat is a year younger than ours, and we spent time comparing notes of changes we had both made. It was Mark who sent us information regarding the replacement of our rudders. We were able to help him with information and photos of how to fix a leaking water tank.

We spend two weeks here doing jobs, visiting friends restocking supplies and looking around. We got out our bikes to get into Papeete. The fridge was fixed and we were very lucky that a friend was flying up here from New Zealand as was able to bring up a replacement anchor up down switch and new bearings for our wind generator.

Moorea at Sunset



We then sail across to Moorea and anchor in Cook’s Bay on the north coast. Again, in behind the shelter of the reef are the turquoise waters of the lagoon with huge peaks rising behind the bays. We spent a few days here, the headed back to Papeete for a night and spent it in the downtown Papeete marina. The next morning we visited Customs to pick up our tax-free fuel authorization paper. One can do this through an agent, but by doing it ourselves, it cost nothing. The savings is 45 percent, so definitely worth the trip.

Cooks Bay, Moorea

Again we are meeting up with fellow yachties, some of whom we first met back in the Caribbean. It really is a social lifestyle, and one which you don’t find back in the so called “normal” world. Ones past position in life is irrelevant, you are mixing with likeminded people who are out enjoying the very same lifestyle. It would be all too easy to get caught up in one place and not move on.

Moorea

After Papeete, it is back to Moorea for a few days, then we move northwest to the Leeward Islands. Our first stop here is Huahine. Oh help, I think I have found the perfect place. For me so far, this is the charm of French Polynesia. Remember, it is French Polynesia that has given the Pacific the reputation of being that enchanting paradise where painters, authors and adventures came to paint, write and explore this Eden far out in the Pacific. The French post-Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin lived on Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. His grave is in the cemetery above Atuona. Jacques Boullaire, another French artist produced beautiful watercolours inspired by the beauty of the region. Writers like Herman Melville wrote “Typee” and “Omoo”. Somerset Maugham visited Papeete to gather material for a novel. Robert Louis Stevenson seriously considered living here, but later settled in Samoa, only because it had a better postal service where he could send his writings back to England to be published. Here in Huahine away from the bustle of tourists and city lights, lies this delightful picture postcard Island. There is a lovely atmosphere about the place. Our first anchorage is between the two islands of which it is made up of. Huahine Nui (meaning big) and Huahine Iti (meaning little). Again incredible waters. We take the tender around Bourayne Bay and back out to the reef. I swim from the back of the boat in an aquarium. We then motor back inside the reef to the town of Fare and go ashore into a quaint village. Like all the villages it is clean and tidy and the people very friendly. Yes I could so easily stay here.

Huahine

My new home, Huahine

Move on we must. It is dead calm as we raise the anchor and motor out through the reef. The water is crystal clear and a spotted ray swims by. A light zephyr wafts across the surface of the water causing small ripples to form on the oil-like surface. Then it is gone. I am now peering down the shafts of sunlight that penetrate into the now sapphire blue waters as we leave the lagoon.

Typical holiday accommodation



Marae Taputaputea



Next stop is Raiatea and Tahaa. Again two islands surrounded by the same reef. Alec has waited till here to have the new bearings put into the wind generator. We find the boat yard on the western side of the island, and drop anchor. The following morning he takes his parts ashore to be fitted. Later that morning the wind picks up. We now have wind against tide. Not the first time this has happened in the Society Islands as we sit behind reefs with currents winds and the like pushing us around. On more than one occasion we up anchor to move out of a channel or away from other boats. Next morning Alec picks up the wind generator from the yard and we fit it back on. Once that job is finished we changed anchorages and go ashore to visit the town of Uturoa.

The Faaroa River

Whale off Bora Bora

Then it is on to Bora Bora, said to be the most beautiful Island in the World . Not sure about that!  The main Island is surrounded by a turquoise lagoon. There is a motu which runs along the north and eastern side of the Island which protects the lagoon making for some wonderful sheltered anchorages. We take our bikes ashore to explore. After a few nights here we need to return to Raiatea as our topping lift rope has started to shred. As we sail back along the outside of the reef we see our second whale in Tahitian waters. While in Raiatea we decide we will start our check out formalities as it takes about three days. This gives us time to catch up with New Zealand friends who have their catamaran based here. They very kindly brought up the wind generator bearings for us.

Typical view of reef

We also sailed down the eastern side of the Island to visit Marae Taputaputea. This Marae (traditional temple) is said to be the most important one in French Polynesia. We also sailed into Faaroa Bay then took the tender up the Faaroa River. The bay is reputed to be the departure place where the Maoris set out for New Zealand via the Cook Islands. Who knows for sure as we have been to a couple of other places here in French Polynesia which also claim to be the place.

Once our paper work came through we head back to Bora Bora. Sadly we have been unable to find a marina in the Society Islands where we could leave the boat for a few months so we could return to New Zealand. The plan was to then return and spend another season slowly cruising through the Pacific towards home. Never mind, we just may return to the Pacific next season to see more of Tonga and Fiji. So now we will slowly start heading for home. Our next stop will be in the Cook Islands.

Utaroa, Raiatea

We will carry wonderful memories with us always of French Polynesia. It’s not just the azure colours of the waters, the grandeur of the volcanic islands, and the magical remoteness of the atolls that leave a long lasting impression, but the fragrant smells from the neat and tidy gardens. As one wanders around the scent of frangipani, gardenia and jasmine along with other tropical blossoms fills the air. We have also been feasting on the beautiful Tropical fruits. Then there are the sparkling clear waters of the lagoons, surf pounding onto coral reefs and yes those the incredible colours.

So once again we will sign off for the time being.

Love from

The Admiral and The Commander